Katherine-Jayne Watts was the winner of the Sportswear and Leisurewear award sponsored by Tessuti at GFW19. Her menswear collection, inspired by the old nautical charts of the Blackwater Estuary her grandad used to navigate the network of salt marshes and mudflats. Katherine shares her experience of GFW19, her advice for final year students and what she’s up to now.
Firstly, a huge congratulations on winning at Graduate Fashion Week 2019! What award did you win?
The Sportswear and Leisurewear award sponsored by Tessuti.
How did it feel when your name was read out during the show?
Very Shocked. I was so happy to be one of the finalists let alone being shortlisted and then winning it! I had admired everyone’s work at graduate fashion week and the standard was so high. It was a very surreal moment.
Which university did you attend and what course did you study?
Fashion and Textile Design at the University of Portsmouth.
…and how do you think they prepared you for graduation?
The course at the University of Portsmouth was compressive, covering a range of skills needed to pursue a successful career in the creative industries. Within my final collection, they encouraged me to seek out challenges which inspired me to go to the extra mile. As well as being supportive, they advised us where to start looking for jobs and encouraged us to apply. They gave us the tools and ensured we were given feedback on things about our C.Vs and covering letters.
What is the most valuable thing that you learnt there?
The most valuable thing I learnt there was perseverance. The creative process is not binary and there can be numerous successful outcomes. Additionally, never to be scared of trying new things out, everyone starts somewhere, and it’s up to you how far you go with it
What lead you to fashion and choosing that course?
I was always interested in art and design, and my A-levels choices reflected this and confirmed that I wanted to learn more about the industry. I wanted to study both fashion and textiles design and The University of Portsmouth offered this course with the facilities to help me grow as a designer.
What themes do you explore with your final year project? And what do they mean to you?
The core theme within my work is sustainability and how I can repurpose fabric which was going to be disposed of. With the increasing amount of pollution, waste and energy-intensive production of new clothing, I wanted to push the boundaries of what could be considered as fabric for clothing. I feel the fashion industry needs to break out of the mould and come up with new and inventive ways on how to create clothing in an environmentally friendly way.
Talk us through your final project presented at GFW. How did that come about?
My graduate collection, The Last Breath, is a genderless collection that reuses materials that all have a connection with the ocean. This came about when I discovered the materials my grandfather once used for boating. This included old life jackets, sails as well as the old nautical charts of the Blackwater Estuary he used to navigate the network of salt marshes and mudflats.
What sort of work did you undertake and how did you decide to work this way?
Working on the mannequin is where I get my initial first ideas, deconstructing garments and placing them on the human form, with samples of potential fabrics. Additionally, using technology to see what the possibilities could be. For example, I use a projector against my toiles to see how prints could be used, whether this be a placement, half drop etc as well as playing around with the scale. Intensive drawings follows, exploring all the outcomes. For example, sleeve shape, hemlines and panelling.
Describe the inspiration and concept behind your work.
Photography by Olivia Ferrara-Forbes
As mentioned above, the old nautical charts of the Blackwater Estuary my grandad used to navigate the network of salt marshes and mudflats was the inspiration for my digital and hand-made prints. On the sails, the metal fittings have been corroded by saltwater demonstrating how time and life eventually pass but the sea and its tides remain resolute. The lung used in lifejackets inflates with every breath exhaled down the breathing tube which gives a sense of survival to the collection.
Do you explore any political, social or historical notions through your work? If so, what messages do you hope to convey?
Sustainability is currently an ongoing element in my world today, sharing political and social aspects. This is why I wanted to explore this in my work, to bring awareness to the issues and some possibilities which could be put in place by the industry. Additionally, using my grandfather’s nautical charts adds a historical element.
The industry is undergoing a huge change, with sustainability, diversity and responsibility becoming huge themes. Do you have any opinions on these movements?
All three, sustainability, diversity and responsibility are extremely important themes which are increasingly getting more notice. Systems like the ‘Higgs index’ and ‘ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme’ are being used more by companies to track sustainability through the process, from start to finish. This is why in my collection sustainability was something I wanted to explore by re-using materials which would have just gone to waste.
Diversity is an issue that is getting more awareness. My collection is genderless, similar to some brands which have already started to promote genderless collections, such as River Island. I feel that this is a great step forward in creating clothing lines which are more inclusive.
How would you describe your personal style? What influences you the most?
My personal style is forever changing with the trend forecasts but the main thing that remains constant is the layering of garments and the oversize silhouettes I like to work with. I am always inspired with what surrounds me, this could be anything from graphics, structures or a feeling. Additionally, details and accessories play a huge role in my personal style. This is where my ideas stem from; the fastenings, trims and how each garment and accessory contributes to the overall aesthetic of the look.
How are you hoping your work will evolve in the future?
I would like to continue with the sustainability aspect of my work and be part of and grow in a company who wants to evolve sustainably. I am looking forward to learning as much as I can and developing as a designer.
Do you have any upcoming projects we should be on the lookout for?
Currently, I am doing an exciting project with the Royal Navy and Marines Charity creating a selection of accessories made out of decommissioned life rafts which will be sold and profits going towards the charity. Additionally, I have a short term contract with the University of Portsmouth as a research assistant, creating coats out of old Navy and Marine uniforms.
My final collection, ‘The Last Breath’ is being shown at Doncaster Fashion week as well as in St Andrews, ‘Sitara’.
Photography by Olivia Ferrara-Forbes
Photography by Olivia Ferrara-Forbes
Graduate Fashion Week provides a platform for emerging fashion graduates to showcase their work regardless of the specific discipline. Which area of the industry are you hoping to pursue, and what informed this choice?
I am really interested in sports/leisurewear, in particular Menswear. My final collection, even though it is genderless, I felt more swayed to the silhouettes of menswear and prefer the prints/style involved. The design industry and print is something I would like to gain experience in as well as working with emerging technologies to develop new methods for design, textiles and manufacture.
Where do you hope to be in five year’s time?
In five years’ time, I would love to have gained experience within the industry with a company which shares my ethical values and that keeps pushing the boundaries of fashion and textile design.
What one thing would you recommend our visitors do whilst at GFW?
Photography by Olivia Ferrara-Forbes
Try and visit all the stands as to how each university displays their work is different. I would also recommend going to a catwalk to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy seeking the work of future designers.
If you could give one piece of advice to yourself in the first year at university, what would it be?
One piece of advice I would give myself in the first year is not to limit yourself to what you already know. Take advantage of all the facilities and opportunities and expand your knowledge.
What top five tips would you give to final year students?
1. Plan your time, so you do not end up rushing near deadlines.
2. Do not compare yourself to others, everyone’s work is different in their own way.
3. Allow time away from your work, so you can refresh, process and re-energise for the next steps.
4. Mental health is so important, so ensure you talk to people when you are feeling stressed/overwhelmed.
5. A healthy routine is essential, this includes enough sleep, the right food and exercise.