Meet Shweta Vakharia, the winner of the Fashion Innovation Award at GFW21. Shweta’s final major project was inspired by the experience of her cousin, who was involved in a traumatic car accident. Her aim has been to create clothing that supports and comforts people with textural sensations and fidget toys. Read more below!

How do you feel about winning an award at GFW21?

Over the years, I have always had some uncertainty on whether I chose the right career path. However, getting involved in the course through designing, creating and manufacturing has made me realise that this was definitely the right choice. My FMP started with an idea of how to aid anxiety sufferers, which then turned into long hours of hard work and throughout this journey, I overcame numerous challenges.

Therefore, winning this award has made me feel proud as my hard work was acknowledged, and I was able to prove to myself what I could achieve. I feel honoured that my concept was recognised by GFW and industry experts! Ultimately it has inspired me to keep going and expand my range, reaching out to a wider audience.

What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?

Three years at university has definitely taught me an endless amount of skills, however, learning how to use my initiative and being adaptable to all situations has definitely been most valuable to me personally. Studio and reduced teacher contact time due to Covid has made it a difficult year for all students, however, it has enabled me to think outside the box and realise that creative ideas are endless. For instance, I have been able to develop my CAD skills by using online tutorials to understand how to complete a specific job, whilst also developing new techniques.

Furthermore, I have pushed myself to find innovative and responsible ways to support sufferers by researching and talking to them via social media. Designing and creating this project has led me to think of how I can enhance my innovative skills and what I could do to take my products further. Developing detailed designs has also led to me to challenge my pattern cutting skills. Thinking outside the box, creating samples, further developing my drawing and manufacturing skills to understand certain mechanisms have all created an exciting new learning curve.

What was the starting point of inspiration for your final project?

Two years ago, my cousin was involved in a major tragic car accident and was admitted into critical care for several months. Initially, I planned to focus on making a functional collection that would help victims of traumatic car accidents manage physical pain. However, after witnessing the mental trauma that the accident caused, I decided to focus my project on mental health, anxiety in particular.

Although a lot of support is available for people suffering from anxiety, such as helplines, mental health awareness week etc., which involves talking to someone else, I wanted to introduce new products where the users themselves have a way of instantly feeling comfort at any given time. This would also be more beneficial for users who are reluctant to speak to professionals at first. I have therefore designed an inclusive range of products and manufactured a jacket to include practical and creative elements, that support wearers from feelings of distress.

What form does your FMP take?

BREATHE will appear both visually and virtually. I have manufactured a jacket that aid wearer from feelings of distress, through the combination of practical yet creative elements. I also wanted to include fidget toys in the pockets for the users as distractions, but rather than depending on objects, I wanted to manipulate fabric myself to create different textures. I gave my peers who have anxiety a couple of samples and found that smocking, Trapunto quilting and creating a maze worked best; they not only enabled a distraction but provided comfort through the soft fabric use.

Initially, I wanted to design 2-in-1 pockets, allowing the user to keep their possessions in one pocket, and their fidgets in another. As my designs progressed, I created interchangeable fidgets that can be attached and detached using poppers quickly, (highly beneficial for someone who is in a panic mode). This led to the creation of BREATHE fidgets – 4 pairs of manipulated fabric including smocking, Trapunto quilting and a maze designed as distractions for the user. Research shows that soothing music and breathing exercises are recommended to help panic attacks. I therefore thought to create a unique and easy way for wearers to listen to this music from just scanning a barcode from their phones.

I created a YouTube playlist and heat transferred the linked bar codes on both the interior and exterior sides of the jacket, so that other individuals can also have access to it, just in case the user can’t. Relievers such as an opening within the sleeves to allow ventilation, soft fabrics, tightening features, text, and weighted fabric are further support mechanisms I have included. I have also created a video to showcase these features within the jacket and how they would be utilized. The video also depicts the importance of mental health, raise awareness, and provides helplines and support for the viewers.

What materials have you used and how did you source them?

A simple hug can offer a sense of support, however the times that this isn’t possible, compression clothing can be used. It provides a constant soft ‘hug’ for the wearer’s body. I have therefore designed garments to include tightening features, through nylon belts, toggles, zips, and buttons, so that the user has the option to feel a ‘hug,’ whilst also allowing some air between their skin and the body in case of sweating. These were all sustainably sourced from the university fabric bin which contains material waste that students will not use anymore.

As I further researched into anxiety, I found that compression clothing, aromatherapy, and tightening and modular features really helped with relaxing people with anxiety. Weighted blankets provide benefits to deep pressure therapy which consist of tight hugs and compression. I, therefore, applied this knowledge when fabric sourcing, and chose Craig Green’s grey jersey for the lining, adding a lot more weight to the jacket. The outer fabric, on the other hand, I wanted waterproof and a lot more lightweight for the wearer; two heavy weighted fabrics would’ve been very uncomfortable for the wearer. Both fabrics were sourced from the university store.

Furthermore, soft fabrics were a key element in my range as sensory touch is a significant reliever for most individuals, especially people with anxiety. I, therefore, found old soft throw blankets and cushion covers around the house that matched my colour palette and used these for my pocket linings.

How has it evolved from your initial ideas and what have you learnt along the way?

As my project stemmed from car/bike accidents, I took detailing inspiration from high-end men’s brands, Belstaff and Barbour, and concentrated on the colour palettes and silhouettes from Stone Island. For my initial design development, I found images of sufferers’ artwork, and began reading interviews, and found that the body reacts in various ways when you’re having a panic attack. Instead of using similar silhouettes to Barbour and Belstaff garments, I decided to try a new approach; I asked my peers who suffer from anxiety to sit in the positions they make before and after having a panic attack, from which I quickly did some observational drawings, and placed these drawings on top of the garments to create new silhouettes.

I later concluded that my customers didn’t resonate with the traits of Belstaff and Barbour’s. I, therefore, conducted further market research and found that designing a collaborative range between Y-3 and Stone Island was more in line with my designs. Stone Island includes a casual and everyday look – something that someone with anxiety would feel comfortable wearing, whilst Y-3’s unique design relates to the unique support mechanisms within my jacket. Changing my market research focus, ultimately leading me to change all my designs halfway through the year helped me learn that initial concept ideas can always change at any time, and sometimes taking a step back and starting again can develop and improve the work immensely.

What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away? Do explore any topics like diversity, sustainability or politics in your work?

My project focuses on mental health, specifically anxiety. The purpose of my range is not only to aid sufferers of anxiety with their feelings of distress, but also to raise awareness about mental health. It was important for me to highlight that mental health isn’t something to be embarrassed about, and should be openly discussed. I have also tried to design my jacket with a sustainable mindset.

I have focussed on the sixth statement of TED’s Ten design responsibilities: ‘designing that looks at models from nature and history,’ specifically looking into mental health. Studying and reflecting information as to how anxiety can affect some individuals, both in the past and present, will inspire me to create functional elements to aid wearers, creating emotional durability, supporting them for the future. ‘Designing to reduce the need to consume’ will also be focussed on; the quality of fabrics, as well as the unique manufacture and detail, will generate garments that will want to be kept and looked after.

What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?

The fashion industry’s effect on mental health is definitely a topic I’m passionate about; a topic I researched further into for my dissertation. I examine how advertisements and some posts on various social media platforms could cause individuals to dress and behave in a certain way, and explore the mental effects of unrealistic standards in terms of appearance that are targeted at women. I also gain a deeper insight into how one’s mindset could be affected by the way they perceive their clothing and fashion.

My aim to link mental health and the negative effects of fashion together was ambitious; despite the fashion industry being a huge asset to society, it could lead to damaging effects on some individual’s mental well-being. I found that fashion choices can be seen as a means to conform rather than one’s self-expression; to gain status from society rather than self-worth from within. From the research gathered, I was able to gain a deeper understanding of how fashion companies can leverage these individuals into buying their products, causing some people’s mental health to deteriorate.

Therefore, for my final design project, I applied my findings and used it to design an inclusive range of garments, specifically suited for patients suffering from anxiety. The research enabled me to consider and evaluate the wearer’s thoughts and feelings, allowing me to make decisions during the design process accordingly. For instance, the significance of body appreciation inspired me to design oversized clothing, which signals that this collection is not only for smaller body types. My research has made it unequivocal that mental health should not be viewed as a trend in the fashion world, but should create a sense of understanding and unity within future fashion.

Now that you have finished your degree, what's your plan?

My FMP has driven me to design creative and practical support mechanisms, which has helped me realise that aiding individuals through fashion is what I want to be a part of in the future. I look forward to designing a variety of garments with similar support mechanisms thereby expanding my range. This will increase product diversity along with brand awareness, thus helping even more individuals. I also aspire to collaborate on various charitable projects by designing certain assisting features that are tailored to a specific cause.