Meet Emily Jane Gibson, Northumbria University Catwalk Show Winner at GFW22. Emily studied Fashion Design at Northumbria University.
How do you feel about winning a GFW22 award?
It's very exciting and I'm so happy that all the work I put into designing my Final Major Collection has been recognised by experienced professionals. I feel honoured.
What was the inspiration starting point for your award-winning FMP?
My Final Major Collection, ‘Kyokusen’, means 'curves’ in Japanese. It is a fusion of historical and abstract concepts, combining inspiration from traditional Japanese kimonos and the abstract curves and malleable forms inspired by Sculpture artists Anton Alvarez and Eva Hild. I juxtaposed these aesthetics to create an abstract collection of contemporary and wearable conceptual art with contrasting lines and forms. The straight lines and layering of the kimono, traditionally worn by geishas and the women of the Imperial Court, were reimagined using the curvaceous and organic shapes inspired by my sculptural references.
What skills did you learn and develop during the production of your FMP?
My final fourth year allowed me to develop my abilities by exploring new ideas for silhouette, drape, manipulation and construction. Experimenting with techniques helped me discover my strengths and made me more confident as a designer.
My final collection utilised fabric manipulation techniques, layering, folding, knotting, wrapping, piping and wadded forms to create new and exciting sculptural shapes and drape. I also bonded fabrics to create new textures and explored silhouette and detail that required meticulous construction and hand finishings.
What were some challenges that you faced in producing your FMP and how did you overcome these?
One of the greatest challenges of my collection was creating the coat for my first look, a bonded sculptural piped sleeve coat. I created my own bonded fabric combination of seersucker and scuba, to create a malleable and spongey structure as a base. I then used tubing and piping to create a unique silhouette informed by sculpture. Experimentation was the key to success, exploring weights of fabric, tubing and pattern cutting techniques to create the correct balance and curved panels in the desired shape. The silhouette held a soft structure and the tubing was lightweight but strong enough to hold the sleeves' shape.
My second look, a red asymmetrical skirt, was another challenge. It required meticulous hand sewing with pick-ups and organic folds. It was challenging to create the desired sculptural drape and it needed support with under-structured boning and organic draping on the form to create the desired moulaged shape. This was time-consuming and it challenged me beyond my comfort zone, to experiment with body moulding boning structures and drape manipulation. This technique was in contrast to the more structured curved constructions of my collection.
Are there any messages or major themes in your FMP that you want people to take away? If so, how did you choose to communicate with them?
‘Kyokusen’ is inspired by traditional Japanese kimonos with folding, knotting and incorporating a wabi sabi aesthetic contrasting with sculptural and abstract concepts to create an exciting new perspective. This collection pushes the boundaries of structure and drape through fabric manipulation, knotting and wrapping to create sculptural elements with key emphasis on shape and layering. Curves and malleable drape are reference to sculptural inspirations and juxtaposing this with inspirations taken from the silhouette of the traditional kimono.
What is an aspect of the fashion industry that you want to help improve or have a positive impact on?
In the future I hope to further research sustainable materials, the sourcing and recycling processes and more sustainable construction methods. I am very intrigued by the concepts of transforming garments, giving new silhouettes and shapes and the unexpectedness that comes from wearing garments in different ways, as a multifunctional piece or with detachable elements.
What form does your FMP take? Is it a collection of clothing, book, presentation, etc? If relevant, how did you source the materials for the project?
Kyokusen is a A/W 23 Womenswear collection made up of six looks, I made three of them, comprising 7 garments in total. I experimented with the sculptural element and created clay knotted earrings and knuckle rings, styled alongside white ankle tabi socks and knotted strap tied heels. The materials I sourced were mostly from stores in London, looking for mostly cotton based and crepe materials that could be used alongside scubas and more wadded materiality. The piping for my first look coat was sourced from Amazon as I experimented with leftover electrical tubing as a lightweight alternative to tubular crinoline.
What are your plans for the near future (further study/ internship/ work?) now that you've finished your BA?
I will begin my career in the Fashion industry, looking for internships and jobs in design and construction. I also would like to travel and continue to study history and culture and do more fashion construction research.
