Meet Kiara Oluyole, a fashion design graduate at Nottingham Trent University. Kiara’s work is inspired by the Black soldiers who fought for the British Empire during world conflicts, and the subsequent erasure of that history. Grime culture and youth culture both play a role in her work, looking at the consumption and relationship with Black culture historically and in the present day. Read on below!
What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?
Being at Nottingham Trent University has taught me how to be confident designer - I have a strong design identity built through my live briefs and projects. My 3D and 2D skills maintained and developed through university beyond studio practice my understanding on visual culture has expanded, which is what has driven my approaches towards my concepts.
Tell us about your current projects and work, what have you been working on?
My project revolves around the black soldiers that had to fight for Britain under the British Empire. The erasure of black history is what has fuelled this project – along with exploring Grime culture and how it has influenced youth culture in Britain today. I have engaged heavily in military-wear and the functionality which is something I wanted incorporate. I created my own camo designs deriving from using old and new maps from commonwealth countries that black soldiers came from and areas in London where Grime comes from. I noticed camouflage print was a big part of streetwear so I wanted to add this element to my project.
What form does your final project take?
My work would have been a full collection of garments but due to COVID-19 I have not been able to finish the manufacturing of my collection. I would then have produced a photoshoot and created a look book for my collection. Currently my work is in the form of 2D work — I have created a portfolio, and a sketchbook virtually to adapt to the pandemic we are in.
How have you evolved as a young creative while studying / working?
From my first year to my third year my skills in design have refined and are much stronger - my techniques in developing my concepts and generating ideas, I have picked up on design development and toiling techniques which have widened my pattern cutting and manufacturing abilities. The skills that I have obtained have given me the confidence to apply for internships and network. Throughout my time at university I have taken up different intern roles that have widened my knowledge on the fashion industry. Networking has also allowed me to collaborate with other students in my art and design school, in photography and textiles.
What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away? Do explore any topics like diversity, sustainability or politics in your work?
My concepts and work represent issues I care about. I developed this project because I felt like there was an erasure of black history happening especially in the UK. Black people's efforts, struggles and oppression are important to me, I articulate and speak up about this throughout my work. Design activism is the approach I have taken as a designer. My goal is to bring awareness to these and wake the fashion industry up - in doing this I hope to teach consumers about appropriation and respect for black people, to educate people on why using black cultures as a commodity is dangerous and harmful to black lives.
What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?
I would love to be a positive impact on the fashion industry as a menswear designer. I want to bring diversity to the role and create work that inspires others to want to enter this field. Along with inventive pattern cutting which I am very passionate about innovating in menswear — to create contemporary designs in this niche market.
What is your plan for the future?
Now that I am a graduate I want take this graduate year to obtain more knowledge on the fashion industry, take this year to intern, network with other young creatives and find a graduate position in the industry as a menswear designer. Furthermore I would love to get into print design as a freelancer, although I studied fashion design print has been a big part of most of my projects. I have enjoyed making prints especially making them cater to menswear. In the long term I want to develop my own label that caters to the values I believe in and a space that creates diversity and equality, along with creating innovative and contemporary menswear.