Meet GFF Talent, JiYoon Kyung, a graduate of University for the Creative Arts. JiYoon has launched her own brand, JAEJU which blends traditional Korean craftsmanship with forward-thinking ethical and sustainable design. “JAEJU is inspired by Korean history, especially in traditional colour schemes and techniques of clothing,” she says. “The vision of this brand is to preserve and bring forth aspects of Korean tradition and introduce them to today’s everyday fashion in ethical ways.” Read more below!
What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?
The worthiest thing that I learned during my master’s degree was building harmonies between various features, especially from unfamiliar cultures, whilst keeping their values. As a person who was raised and born in South Korea, it was not easy to start my study in fashion abroad at first. As I learned how to communicate smoothly to pupils and tutors with diverse nationality, I also learned valuable knowledge. Through communications with them, I could build my brand and its business plan globally. Also, I am an enthusiastic and self-motivated educated fashion specialist.
I am a fluent English and Korean speaker with basic conversation skills in Japanese. Using the linguistic background and sophisticated writing techniques, I received overall 86.50% and A++ at Final Project Resolution and Collection Launch in MA Fashion Design at University for the Creative Arts. I also earned a bachelor’s degree with Magna Cum Laude grant in Fashion Design, by holding the highest record GPA of 4.50/4.50 on all Art and Design subjects. By applying enhanced techniques and acquaintance from 2 courses in London (Couture Tailoring, Central Saint Martins and Creative Drawing, Royal College of Art), I have held a total of 7 exhibitions and won the 1st and 2nd prizes at nationwide design competitions.
It would prove my ability to present reliable information with the right artworks while balancing both artistic and commercial aspects. I learned that fashion has the power to connect all the people around the world. Currently, sustainability in Korea is not that strong to attract customers. But while I studied in the United Kingdom, I got inspirations by ethical and sustainable concepts what I acquired from various histories. In the ideas and marketing strategies that I learned from the new world; I will introduce my Korean featured design to the public efficiently. And my brand will broaden its territory into the worldwide fashion market.
Tell us about your current projects and work, what have you been working on?
A contemporary womenswear brand ‘JAEJU’ is established to preserve the traditional Korean techniques and textiles by introducing them to the world before their history has vanished. Under the mission ‘for the earth, not just for us’, JAEJU supports the beauty of historically rich cultures and Korean nature heritages with sustainable design. JAEJU is inspired by Korean history, especially in traditional colour schemes and techniques of clothing. The vision of this brand is to preserve and bring forth aspects of Korean tradition and introduce them to today’s everyday fashion in ethical ways.
The name of the brand is JAEJU, and it is a combination of designer’s name (JiYoon) and the island called Jeju. For many years, the Jeju island(제주도) has been an inspiration or source of nature’s beauty. The island is one of the most beautiful and historically rich places in Korea. The word JAEJU in Korean also means ‘talent’, ‘skill’ and ‘gift’ which will be a key trait of people working for and towards making this brand a success. From the nature and the history of Korea, JAEJU learns what JAEJU needs to preserve for the earth, not just for us. JAEJU acts for sustainability with a sense of responsibility.
To take care of the environment, JAEJU only uses organic fabric and eco-friendly materials. To preserve the legacy of Korean textile, JAEJU exposes traditional garment making techniques(‘Bojagi’ and ‘Garot’) to the world before they die down. JAEJU stands for the earth. So the brand provides products for customers to easily invest in culture, nature and historic heritage, without extra effort.
What form does your work take?
No matter what time or what place, JAEJU makes clothes for everyday life. Harmony in tradition and modern, soft and hard, structured and simple, easy and sophisticated is the key of my design. And for my brand’s mission, I use natural or recycled materials and green technique such as eco-dying methods. Commencing by clothing and accessory lines, JAEJU expands the potential of its collections to menswear and lifestyle for the growing global fashion market. JAEJU communicates with consumers steadily via diverse channels like SNS and popup stores.
Through communications, JAEJU set seasonal marketing strategies and price ranges which starts from £296.15(clothing). 1. Eco-friendly and ethical process: From the materials, JAEJU uses only organic or recycled fabric. JAEJU also uses carbon-free dye techniques like Jeju Island’s local vegetable dye called ‘Garot’ to stop polluting water and soil. Helping to keep the earth green. 2. Customise clothes for anytime, everywhere: Rather than following trends, JAEJU makes timeless, easy-to-wear and versatile clothes for millennial women. Yet with JAEJU’s customising options like Korean embroideries and hand needle stitching, the customers could add specialty on their styles. 3. Guaranteed zero waste traditional sewing technique: JAEJU uses traditional Korean hand needle stitching used in ‘Bojagi’, which recycles all bits of fabric to create a new one.
With ethical supply chains in Asia including Korea, it ensures workers receive a living wage through ethical trading. JAEJU’s 2020 A/W collection consists of 16 items. There are 6 outerwears, 3 tops and shirts, 2 skirts, 1 trousers and 4 dresses including 3 in 1 series knit cape in wool and Batwing sleeve knit top with belt. Each style has various colourways and it gives diversity on the looks. Moreover, outerwears and 4 dresses or 60 combinations of top and bottom could make 1,280 outfits.
How have you evolved as a young creative while studying / working?
The founder of JAEJU JiYoon Kyung is into fashion with extreme rigour to find balance in the past and future of Korea. With three years of experience and a bachelor’s degree in fashion design from Seoul, Ji desires to dwell on how the beautiful heritage of Korea can adapt into modern fashion and create awareness among millennial people about its value. Based on several award-winning experiences at prestigious competitions with traditional Korean colour palettes, including 1st prize at the uniform design competition for the 2018 Olympic Winter Games committee and volunteers, Ji leads the brand to set sound harmony of JAEJU and consumers.
I have the combination of my deep interest in all facets of creative thinking for fashion products, and my professional design development experience in 3 years of career made me suited for the young creative fashion industry. With my experience of contributing to the implementation of comprehensive technical knowledge with high-end brands, my extensive network broadens within factories for fabrics, garment production factories and global fashion brands such as Tory Burch, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger.
Throughout hundreds of projects, I have achieved highly trained programme and project management skills including scheduling, executing, advising and assessing all steps in R&D works. I forecasted leading trends, researched consumer behaviours, and released papers in both Korean and English including; 64 pages of styling magazines with eye-catching items for upcoming seasons; 280+ pages of production sample collection booklets reflecting current fashion trends; 80+ pages of trends forecasting in 6 months terms.
What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away? Do explore any topics like diversity, sustainability or politics in your work?
JAEJU stands for the earth, not just for us. Building sustainability into everyday life is an ongoing mega trend. JAEJU uses only organic and recycled materials and work only with ethical supply chains. As a Korean brand, JAEJU feels it is the brand’s responsibility to preserve Korean legacy. The brand JAEJU has been established to introduce Korean tradition, nature and culture to millennial women. With relaxed silhouette, minimalistic design and natural tone on tone colour combination, JAEJU broadens the traditional Korean design features in global fashion markets.
1. Environment: The Jeju island was formed due to volcanic eruptions 2 million years ago. It contains natural world heritage site Jeju volcanic island and lava tubes and boasts a dormant volcano and a moderate climate which persists even in the winter season. In these circumstances, ‘Garot’ -a vegetable dye technique from Jeju island with unripe persimmons- will be used in JAEJU’s products.
2. Tradition: Traditionally, within Korean folk religions, many Koreans have thought that keeping something wrapped for luck protected its good energy. And the techniques in wrapping things, which have used for thousands of years, are moving from textile to garments. To use in modern fashion, the hand needle stitching technique in Bojagi is the most intriguing and adaptable among them. A collection of JAEJU’s clothing is an artwork itself just like one of the Korean traditional patchworks ‘Bojagi’, which requires special skills and a lot of intricate handworks. In the earlier days, ‘Bojagi’ was used for recycling small pieces of cloth, but during the Joseon dynasty, it gained popularity and was used to manufacture clothes with a beautiful colour combination.
What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?
I did a market analysis is about the macro and micro environments surrounding JAEJU’s target customers and it is to answer their demand. According to Common Objective, fashion apparel retail sales worth 1.34 trillion US dollars per year and womenswear market marks 53% worldwide. The most consuming now is in the USA and China. JAEJU’s target customers are professional, rich Asian millennial women with high income. Even though they have a busy modern lifestyle, they concern political, environmental, and social issues.
JAEJU reflects their preferences and introduces them to modern classic clothes. Millennials are very interested in ethical issues on the process of the products that they use. They also concern sustainability when they purchase products. It means contemporary designer brands should think about manufactures and materials they will use. For example, woman right was one of my concerns in this season. Starting from a feminist Yumi Ishikawa in Tokyo, this movement spread across Japan. Her post has a hashtag #KuToo, which contains the definitions of pain and shoes. It brings women’s understanding to fight against the persecution toward women at work.
From the past, industries in Japan have legislatively pushed women workers to wear heels at work, under the terms of ‘professional attitudes’. However, women should deserve the same as men. Avoiding pressure from wearing heels, women in the most conservative Asian countries now take action to be free from wrong customs. It is why JAEJU made comfortable garments for working millennial women. Customers choose their favourite brands depends on not only their products but also their vision and mission. Sustainability is one of the basic ideas that they concern. Which materials the brands use, where they produce products, what designers care the most when they develop a line matter to customers.
What is your plan for the future?
JAEJU will build online first in England and Korea, and then open a store next within 5 years in Korea and other countries too to attract more customers. JAEJU’s expected annual revenue in clothing is £1m of total assets globally, with £0.7m of net assets. For JAEJU’s bright future, I set some marketing strategies. To communicate with our customers frequently, I opened live chat which could answer within 24 hours at Instagram, Facebook and the official website. We also operate an e-mail response system 24/7. Urgent Q&A is available via call service from 10 to 6 working days. For regular face to face communication, I will hold a price break event at a charity bazaar every year.
It is for not only promoting JAEJU to future customers but also for selling stock items at reasonable prices. Exhibitions and galleries would be a market place for the event. Also, getting a prize at prestigious competitions is a great way to introduce a new born fashion brand to the public. There are some global and domestic fashion competitions, including the K-fashion competition. Interview is a good way to build the brand big. Magazines like Big Issue, Wallpaper, Green Mind and Indigo will be one of JAEJU’s presses.
Bringing environmental and cultural issues to the top and showing JAEJU’s effort on it is the marketing point. Via digital marketing, I can grow the brand efficiently. Instagram is a rising star in SNS league as a result in a survey on promotion and communication channels for JAEJU. It is automatically connected to Facebook and is to promote a new product with related images. JAEJU can start google ads from a week-long ad with only £10. Google ads can make JAEJU more exposed to the public at its the largest searching engine in the world.