Meet GFF Talent, Liene Ozolina, a graduate of Heriot-Watt University School Of Textiles And Design. Liene was inspired by her experience of growing up in Latvia, then moving to Scotland for university, to create a collection that has inclusive messaging at its core. Titled Disabled Totems, the collection is functional yet bold in its use of silhouette. “The idea of self-expression, individuality and acceptance in society was something I wanted to talk about,” she says. Read more below!
What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?
Reflect. Reflect on my work, my thoughts and my actions. As a creator, you can only create with the right mindset and understanding what can you do differently in this world within your next steps. Ask constantly questions and be interested to explore the world. It was something I learned during all those years at University. It is essential to take a break and pause for a moment as it helps you to reset and gives much more energy, fresh and innovative ideas. Every summer or even during the semester breaks, I made sure I have an upcoming trip or a weekend off once in a while as I was an International full-time student with a part-time job and training at least four times a week.
Not sure if I would like to experience student life once again, but it teaches you a lot when you make all of those mistakes and sometimes sleep four hours for days and days in a row. Especially when you are a creative person and always wanting to do that extra bit to be better and push yourself. It is the magic about studying fashion, it is something quite close to your heart that you become exceptionally determined and can achieve things you have never imagined. Within the crazy schedule, I also gained two very crucial skills as work discipline and time management. With limited time I needed to stay explorative, creative and manage the workload. When I look back on all those years, I feel very proud of myself and believe that this background will help me to go far in life. And I can only thank all of those people I have met on my way, my family for the support. You need the right people around you to help you stand up when you feel very low
What was the starting point of inspiration for your final project?
During the first Lockdown last summer, I went back home to Latvia and thought it would inspire my research while being closer to my roots. When I came back to Scotland, I had zero inspiration and only a hope that I will find the right subject that touches me deeply. I can proudly say I did, but it took me a while and a lot of reading and visual research. However, I have always believed in the power of fashion, its community and the impact it leaves on individuals. As there are many things we need to work on in the industry, It was very clear to me that I would like to address an issue or a global problem. Also, to connect that with my personal experiences and background. In the beginning, I was struggling to pick one particular thing as my mind usually wanders around all the ideas in my head.
However, I am very interested in art, inclusivity and the power of clothes. I started to research all of those subjects and look back to my Latvian background, the national costume and symbolism we use to this day. Eventually, after long hours and days of research through books, the Internet and my past experiences as we were not allowed to commute or visit museums, I found the subjects of my interest. With my collection, I wanted to create an inclusive place for those who are feeling excluded or not accepted due to impairments, race, culture, background or gender. Growing up in Post-Soviet Latvia and then moving to Scotland changed my perception a lot.
The idea of self-expression, individuality and acceptance in society was something I wanted to talk about. I chose disability studies as a perfect example to reflect the Social-Model and the contradictions in the Fashion Industry. Researching and looking at the 20s Russian Avant-Garde art, for instance, Malevich, I was immensely inspired by the idealogy and courage he as an artist had during that time in history. I want to encourage society to move away from those backward entrapments. With novelty and inclusivity at heart, create a future that has a place for everyone.
What form will your final major project take?
There is a lineup with six outfits. From that, we only manufactured two selected final Outfits since the situation has been quite challenging and unclear. We did not have any workshop access this semester and only a couple of times last semester to do some bits for our toiles. My collection 'DISABLED TOTEMS' allows the audience to engage with the garments in their own sensual and personal way to experience the freedom of self-expression. Outfits that offer bolder, outer-space silhouettes using experimental pattern cutting with detachable and attachable elements for functionality. Some of the elongated silhouettes and dresses are inspired by the Latvian National costume we have cherished throughout centuries and during oppression times.
Also, I have added a back opening for some of the garments to offer multifunctionality. Furthermore, I wanted to create outerwear that changes within you using trims as straps and buckles. The functional elements of the garments, for instance, the detachable pieces are a sense of balance for the clothing whilst adding value and comfort to our existing wardrobes. Elements as monochrome and elegant stitching that I learned from Japanese Sashiko and used as an inspiration for casual wear and outerwear garments, aim to reflect the supremacism art from the 20s century Russian Avant-Garde movement. I used dynamic colours and prints that embody a symbolic and mystical meaning, also, deriving from my Latvian background strengthens the individual. The Lookbook and Video Clips are the results that present both Outfits. I intend to tell the story using a strong setting for the photoshoot and editorial. My two friends participated as models, my other two friends took the photos and did the hair. After I finished the editorial for photos, I created a lookbook as a manifestation of the future. The lookbook endeavours the vision of my collection.
What materials have you used and how did you source them?
After researching different types of sustainable fabrics and upcycling methods, I wanted to make a positive impact and be environmentally friendly as much as possible. Within the time my collection evolved and changed. That lead to a print design and doing puffy, extra warm outerwear garments. In the end, I found great solutions and my collection was supposed to be manufactured using recycled polyester and other recycled materials. However, I was supposed to purchase them from University. University offers a range of different printing methods and in a normal situation, I would use the Digital Print at the campus and print fabric by myself. There are only a few specific fabrics that University holds and would be less damaging for the environment.
At the last minute, just before we were supposed to return to the campus and place our orders, the Lockdown took place. I needed to rethink the whole process of printing, manufacturing and most importantly the fabrics for my garments. I had around two weeks to do that. It only showed me how much we still have to achieve for a sustainable, effective supply chain that offers innovative fabrics, trims and upcycled items available for the customer and market. In the end, I used fabrics that would at least last a lifetime and are good quality. Outerwear pieces are made from waterproof nylon and for the rest of the collection, I used hard-wearing fabrics like twill and other digitally printed fabrics. To be more environmentally friendly, I upcycled all the scraps into accessories, little objects that you can attach, detach, a strap bag accessory and extra detachable panels for the jacket. For the trims, I had a lot of D rings and other things I collected over the years and used for my collection for detachable elements. Some garments also are filled with upcycled pillow stuffing to reduce waste.
How has it evolved from your initial ideas and what have you learnt along the way?
After completing my research, I was quite focused on the disability studies and adaptability aspect of my designs. For long hours I worked on a stand to develop interesting silhouettes and details. It took me three full lineup trials to do and an enormous amount of colour experimentations. Thanks to my lecturer as he pushed me a little bit extra every time. Most important is to keep experimenting and even more important, know when to stop. My lineup was quite abstract and more artistic rather than technical. After selecting two outfits from the lineup, I analyzed them until it was clear how to achieve that technically and manufacture them. Also, I looked at the silhouette and sketched out how it would function and look like an actual garment. A significant part of the design was print and colours.
After the first semester, I thought I want to do the finals in print. Later on, I decided to only do the lining for them and keep it monochrome to emphasize the stitching, form and structure. Which I am happy I did and believe it looks more elegant and sophisticated that way. The experimentation and continuous development for garments and print thought me to be patient and there is a solution even during the hardest times. As we went into the lockdown in December, I panicked that I don't have the machines at home and one of my garments ar nearly 4x2m big.
My kitchen floor barely reached those parameters and I had no idea how I will manage the sewing. And then my 14oz wadding arrived and broke my domestic sewing machine. I needed to find a quick solution and reach to my Instagram followers to see if anyone can land me one. Not having an overlock was another thing. I finished beautifully every seam with one or the other technique, but I was lacking some support for the dress as I used fabric with some elastic. Thereby I know that if I was able to do this alone in my little kitchen, without seeing my peers and other people for months, then I can do everything just with the right mindset and purpose.
What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away? Do explore any topics like diversity, sustainability or politics in your work?
With my collection, I aim to address diversity, equity and inclusion. There are three major topics I have linked together. When I started my graduate collection I could not imagine that it would be so relevant today when movements such as Balck Lives Matter, Stop Asian Hate is happening. Part of the research for my collection are conducted from vulnerability and disability studies. We have created this damaging social model where a significant part of society is ignored and excluded. For instance, people with impairments displacement in the industry and society is something which should be seriously addressed. There are many other groups of people that are not feeling accepted, vulnerable and needed in the community. It is how we perceive humanity and the old fashioned way of thinking that comes from a certain regime.
Regards to that I wanted to bring in my background and experience that have some political references. I grew up in a Post-Soviet system, communities such as LGBTQ and other individuals who were not part of the mainstream felt quite alien. The post-Soviet regime and the Proletariat movement made everyone look and live the same way and as part of working-class society, not as many opportunities as you imagine. Many things were forbidden and the freedom of speech was something my family and families, in general, did not experience. Even when I went to high school, I could sense how teachers respond to certain things that are rooted in their mindsets.
I taught about my image and how to fit in the society all the time and there were a lot of things I disagreed with but never felt able to express. When I moved to Scotland It opened my eyes to the diversity and new ways of living. People here celebrate each other and see individuality as an opportunity to embrace it. Hopefully, I have made people look from different angles at their actions and our political regime that often takes over our minds. To encourage society through fashion and the dream of a future where these boundaries have been pushed further, I brought in more references from the 20s Russian Avant-Garde Art movement and Suprematism. At that time the artist ideas were extremely revolutionary and went against the system ignoring the comparisons and contradictions. And I feel exactly doing that today, be part of a new system. More open-minded, empathetic and respectful.
What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?
We live in a world where technology, science, design and art should be engaged and thought under the same roof. With my work and future experiences, I hope to grow as a designer and fashion consultant to help to achieve that. We have a lot to do to become a more sustainable, ethical and resilient industry, but we can only do that if we collaborate and work collectively. Also, for a long time, one of my deep interests have been diversity and inclusion in Creative Industries. I see a lot of social groups excluded or not accepted.
I respect designers such as Rick Owens, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto from which I have learned how to approach the design creatively with a strong message behind it. Brands that try to break the boundaries and address those qualities attract me and always had. I want to add my part to create a better future that is more respectful and fueled with empathy. Create a Future of Fashion to allow any gender to decided how they wish to be perceived in society, making any individual feel vulnerable, women respected without the need to create hate towards men. It also leads to creating the Industry a more innovative and inclusive place. I believe that there is a necessity to intensify empathy and novelty, blurring the lines between masculine femininity and feminine masculinity.
Clothes are a mirror to our inner selves, we can use them as a tool whilst giving a chance to the individuals to decide what they want to wear and be not what someone else wants them to be. I think about future-proof fashion most of the time and the materials, trims, sustainable fabrics we could involve in our designs as the basis. I love adding details for garments that make them multi-functional, adaptable and inclusive.
What is your plan once you finish your BA?
After four years at University, I am excited about the new chapter in my life. I would be over the moon to land a job or an Internship pretty much anywhere in the world. I love the work I do and share a great appreciation for the Fashion and Creative Industries. With my ambitions, creative abilities and future-forward take on design, I hope to work towards a positive change and be a great asset to a smaller or bigger brand. And you can only do that by actually doing the job, sometimes failing and stand up again. There have been times when I thought about my brand, but I would only do that only if I would find the right cause to support and would have enough experience in the industry.
You need contacts and a good understanding of how things are happening in different places around the world. That is why I would not mind locate in the future. On that note, I am very excited to expand my skills while learning 3D software as CLOD 3D to visualise my ideas. One of the great things about technology is that it creates new opportunities to help visualise your experiments without creating more waste. Finally and most importantly, I promised myself to work on my mental health and well-being, creating love and empathy towards myself. This is something I promised after reflecting on this year. I had created so many negative thoughts and anxiety by just being most of the time alone and panicking about my life after graduation. I tend to put too much pressure on myself and I know that it needs to change. To create a better future we need to start with ourselves. Overall, I feel very positive about the future and hope to share that with others!