Meet GFF Talent, Jordan Fergusson, a fashion design & technology graduate from Manchester Metropolitan University. Jordan’s final year project is called QUEER REVERIE, a personal exploration of gender stereotypes and how they can be reconstructed through a queer lens. “I wanted to create characters that were queer and unapologetic in their form of dress - raking on classic menswear silhouettes and 'camping it up.’” says Jordan. To learn more about his work and plans for the future, read on below.
What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?
For me, the biggest thing I've learnt is to TRUST THE PROCESS. I feel that really trusting the process and the journey I take in the creative process has served me well, not being afraid to experiment and try new illustrative techniques to build a tactility and personality to my work that will resonate with those who regard my work.
What was the starting point of inspiration for your final project?
The starting point for my inspiration was initially to evoke feeling/emotion in my work - I knew I wanted to do something which was personal and focused on people. I am inspired by those around me and how powerful the individual can be so I really wanted to celebrate that. With this particular project, I wanted to create characters that were queer and unapologetic in their form of dress - raking on classic menswear silhouettes and 'camping it up.’
I wanted to create a persona/character for each look which embodied my dreamy sense of what a real man could be. I wanted to reimagine men in more genderless/playful styles which cross gender boundaries and almost blur them completely. I felt these labels aren't important to me. It is a reverie what I wish the modern man looked like - or the majority of men chose to dress/present themselves like. But not even men, just for anyone, he, she, they, who likes to break gender codes and traditions.
What form will your final project take?
The concept titled 'QUEER REVERIE' for my proposed brand, GEN(DARE) will take on the form of a collection. I have coined each collection of my brand as a 'feeling' - this one being 'LIBERATION'. I have taken on various stereotypes of masculinity and recreated them through the lens of a queer man, myself. With this said, I am subverting these rigid binarised forms of masculinity by introducing bright colours, melodrama, delicate/contemporary fabrications and narratives for each look to hopefully allow people to resonate with any look in the collection in different ways.
The concept of fantasy was inspired by the film Pink Narcissus by James Bidgood which follows a gay gigolo in his erotic fantasies, changing throughout the film - so I wanted to do the same with a chameleon collection. I use the word chameleon because I see identity as an ever-changing thing and it can't be pinned down by one sexuality or gender, we are fluid beings and so I hope that my collection shows that. I am creating a visual film that will inform the collection through a dreamy retro style lens - a queer reverie in the video.
What materials have you used and how did you source them?
I have sourced my materials by researching each look/persona religiously and then thinking up the fabrics that come to mind for that particular style. So for instance, my first look is 'Breakfast at Jeremy's - a gay adaptation of the classic Hepburn film, a play on words. I imagined a guy rolling out of bed in last night's clothes with breakfast from his man in the other room, so I thought of the glitz and glamour of Tiffany's but adapted it to a queer fantasy. I pictured a cropped suit jacket and satin boxers with a cummerbund waistband - so lots of satins, wool, lyocell(for boxer). Very flowy and whimsical fabrics to elicit this idea of joy and reminiscence.
How has it evolved from your initial ideas and what have you learnt along the way?
Through further delving into the concept and thinking up keywords such as liberation, hyper-expression and intrepidity, I have unleashed the queer that's been held inside me. I feel that my design work has been cathartic - I have been able to let out all the queer creativity inside me that I feel I have had inside me for many years... living in a heteronormative world, growing up in Inverness a small city with not many opportunities for someone who chooses to step outside the box. I think that a lot of the time people's perceptions of freedom/self-expression are warped or varied depending on their demographic or location.
I think as I've grown older I have become more confident but I do sometimes feel that space for queer narratives is often limited and controlled by the straight world, tokenised. I feel that my final year project has allowed me to explore everything I dream of and how I perceive the world and people around me which has been so liberating and I hope it liberates others when they see it - even if one person resonates with it that is an impact. In my final year I have really found my voice as a practitioner, wanting to reach out and include everyone in my work with an air of audacity. I want my work to reach those who don't feel represented in the fashion industry and create a sense of community with my openheartedness. Wearing my thoughts on my sleeve to share for the better.
What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away? Do explore any topics like diversity, sustainability or politics in your work?
Two words: Identity Politics. Touching on the diversity and politics of society, I feel that I always focus on gender constructs as an issue. I see it as an issue as it labels us and confines us to two categories and often neglects the 'other'. That 'other' of society is the person who I want to advocate for in my work. It isn't to say I'm ignoring those who choose to live by the gender binary - it is simply saying that others are just important and equal even if they aren't heterosexual, or they are gender nonconforming, whatever. I want to take away archaic labels to give choice back to the wearer rather than categorise by size and gender. I like to think that my work speaks for itself and people can take these definitions from it due to the personal, honest thread I have throughout my work.
What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?
I think for me, being PRESENT. I want to make a stamp on the industry in its neglect of sustainability and ethics or race inequality and also the elitist positions of several brands and houses. I think slowing fashion is important to me. I don't think we can hold every brand accountable to reverse the damage they've done to the climate due to the product lifecycle being lengthy/expensive/wanton. I think the solution is to bring back quality, over quantity. I think creating even one collection for the full year rather than perpetuating seasonal catwalks. These are unrealistic - there is no balance.
It's either high end or fast fashion and there's no cooperation. I think fashion is the one thing that can bring people together for positive change. Number one for me is slow fashion, creating strong narratives to resonate with people on an emotional level which will change their shopping habits and maybe make them appreciate the value of things. Also that materialism and having the latest high-end designer isn't an indicator of your identity or place in society. People need to start seeing clothing as long-lasting and not just a throwaway trend or a personality trait. I will focus on 3D Design, digital solutions to cut out phases in the product lifecycle which have a huge impact on the environment which can easily be avoided with technological solutions.
What is your plan once you finish your BA?
Once I finish my BA, I have been long anticipating this and have been so excited about getting out there. The fashion landscape is constantly evolving. I think for me I want to work at various levels, corporate, small brand, fashion house, and garner all the experience I can. Whilst I'm doing that, I'd love to be building my own brand in my spare time and networking and gaining as much exposure as I can. I am a go-getter and don't ever want to settle for less than what I can dream of doing.
I want to make a positive impact on people's lives - instilling joy in fashion, dressing up and creating strong narratives within these concepts that will resonate with people on a deeper emotional level. Ideally, in 10 years, I'd love to move back to Glasgow, Scotland and establish my brand from home. I think the pandemic has shown people that they can cope with WFH and not being in London or bigger cities. I want to bring fashion to my home and take pride in starting from there. I think the fashion industry is adapting so much and digital is accelerating so soon we will be able to work from wherever we like, I hope.