Meet GFF Talent, Amber Bailey from Coventry University. Amber’s final project is called Freedom From the Land, inspired by the Land girls and the role they played in promoting female independence during the second world war. The focus is on prints, with two physical outfits that highlight the key silhouettes and textile techniques that reflect the two contrasting lifestyles of women during WW2. Read more about Amber’s collection and plans for the future below.
What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?
The most valuable thing I have learned from university is how to be open to new opportunities that I may not believe I am right for. University has allowed me to expand my skills in a range of specialisms and project concepts, which have pushed me out of my comfort zone. I feel this is going to be very beneficial after graduation when looking for a job.
What was the starting point of inspiration for your final project?
My family's heritage has always been important to me. For generations, my family have been involved in the agricultural industry; it's our inherited sense of family identity. This led me to become inspired by the Land girls and the role it played in growing female independence, which was dominated by domesticated lifestyles during the 1930's/40's.
What form will your final project take?
The story behind my project, Freedom from the Land, is reflected through a womenswear print collection. I aim to make two physical outfits, which highlight the key silhouettes and textile techniques that reflect the two contrasting lifestyles of women during WW2.
What materials have you used and how did you source them?
With inspiration from WW2, I researched the type of materials that were worn by women during this period. Most materials I have incorporated into my collection, consist of cotton, wool, and linen. The key importance for me was sourcing materials with the right colour tones which carry my colour palette throughout my collection. This meant I did a lot of fabric research online, getting plenty of fabric samples in a range of colours. As my collection is predominantly focused on print design, I used Contrado, an online printing service, to buy samples of my print on a range of fabrics. With the influence of the make do and mend rationing, I also wanted to be resourceful with my sources for trimmings. Following my family heritage, I have incorporated vintage trimmings from my Grandmother.
How has it evolved from your initial ideas and what have you learnt along the way?
From my initial ideas, my project has evolved greatly. In the beginning, I experimented with a variety of silhouettes that were inspired by my research and shapes within my print development. It was after my first semester where I began to reflect on what I was designing. Certain elements of smocking have been carried throughout my project and evolved into statement pieces that are detachable to an outfit. Particularly with this practice, I have learned that it can be unpredictable.
When designing certain shapes i.e. round collars, the technique doesn't always comply with the desired silhouette. However, over time I have learned to accept the beauty of this; it is from here I discovered that it contributed to the concept of the Land Girls feeling unrestricted and free. During my project journey, I have also developed my skills in print design, which have enabled me to grow as an aspiring print designer. I have learned the importance of reflection throughout the process of creating a collection, and how important it is to step back and re-evaluate where to take the project next.
What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away? Do explore any topics like diversity, sustainability or politics in your work?
It was vital that I practised sustainability whilst developing my collection. With the rise in demand for investment clothing which can increase longevity, knowing how to improve the wear of garments will help me become more desirable as a designer. With inspiration from the Make Do and Mend rationing period during WW2, I have developed decorative patches across my collection. Using remnants of my fabrics, I reworked them into the weaker areas of my garments, i.e. the knees and elbows. By incorporating this small detail into my outfits, I am able to tie the concept of my project and ultimately reinforce the message that sustainability can be beautiful and powerful.
What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?
I recently watched a live panel event, authorized by my university, on the future of fashion. This event was held by a series of designers, where they spoke about their vision on how the fashion industry will change, particularly after lockdown. It was mentioned that people are looking for clothing to become more personal and meaningful, especially as we all are learning about the impact on our textile consumption. This is an aspect of the fashion industry I feel passionate about because as a consumer, I am not influenced by trends, but by how a piece of clothing makes me feel. I would love to be able to contribute to this, especially when I want to start my own brand.
What is your plan once you finish your BA?
After my BA degree in Fashion, I plan to pursue a print designer career. I will be applying for junior and assistant jobs in this specialism. After some experience in the industry, I would like to set up my own brand.