Meet GFF Talent, Emily Bowden, a fashion graduate from Coventry University. Inspired by butterflies and the cocoon as a metaphor for living through lockdown for the last year, a journey of transformation can be seen through her collection. Read more below!
What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?
Over the last 4 years, I feel that I have really grown as a person as well as a designer. From the beginning of the course my confidence has developed so much and I have been able to gain skills and become more independent and excited to have even more new experiences. I began my fashion journey after completing a University of the arts London diploma in Art and Design at Wolverhampton college. I became fascinated by the idea of creating wearable art that can tell a story and convey a message that can be developed into clothing rather than just something you would hang on a wall. Using my love for art and clothing together I decided to pursue a degree where I could learn more and showcase my ideas.
When I began my course at university I really had no idea how clothes were traditionally made through pattern cutting and draping as I had come from a fine art background. The way I have always naturally designed was to create art the way I imagined and then apply it to the human body to figure out afterwards how I can make this into wearable clothing. My lecturers and technicians at Coventry university have played a big part in helping me gain more confidence in garment production, with their support over the last few years my skills have improved dramatically. Being at university has also made me gain appreciation towards how things are made what goes into creating garments. Since I have been at university it has really opened my eyes to the process of design from the initial drawing to final production. Before I began my fashion journey I had no idea about how much work goes into the creation and it has made me aware of how important it is to support ethical designers and small businesses.
What was the starting point of inspiration for your final project?
The initial concept idea for my project was formed throughout lockdown during which we were metaphorically cocooned in our own environments; I wanted to convey the different stages throughout the process which lead to transformation at the end. I showcased this idea by developing my garments in a way that carries elements from my primary images focusing predominantly on the butterfly emerging from the cocoon because it is the main concept which demonstrates metamorphosis. I carried out my primary research at Stratford butterfly farm I wanted to collect as many photos and videos as I could in order to produce the best work and also because it will benefit my designs to have variation for silhouettes and textures. I want my collection to show the story of how the caterpillar gradually develops into a cocoon and then you see the butterfly begin to emerge.
I think giving my garments a theme not only helps me to design in a way that follows the structure of what I am trying to portray but it also demonstrates the concept of transmogrification. I think that this concept is something everyone can relate to as everyone can associate with my project in different ways, I personally identify with metamorphosis because to me my final project demonstrates not only how I have grown but also to new beginnings. This year has created massive changes in everyone’s lives however I wanted to channel my inspiration from that into my project. This year at university I have had to work remotely for a large portion of it however I believe it has made me stronger as a designer to trust my own instincts and strengthen my abilities in garment production. During this period I became more passionate about proving my skills as a designer and became more adventurous and created an even larger more dramatic scale with my outfits, I am really excited about what I have designed and I feel it conveys metamorphosis the way I wanted it to.
What form will your final project take?
My project will take the form of garments that I will produce and style on a model to create a multimedia experience that will involve a photoshoot and videography. The reason I am doing this is that I want people to see the full dimension of the outfits where you can see the full scale and texture of my designs, also because I am using iridescent materials which change colours with different angles and lighting. In order to see the overall aspect of my presentation, I will demonstrate how my garments look from all angles in an environment that suits the complete aesthetic of my project. The themes I wish to portray in my imagery are fantasy, transformation and amplification of metamorphosis in nature. I will style the model for my photoshoot the way I have in my illustrations with a fairy-like alien inspired makeup look and base the shoot in a natural utopia environment.
I plan to produce at least 3 outfits overall which will each show one of the key stages of metamorphosis, the first outfit will be inspired by Larva which I have conveyed throughout my research of caterpillars. The silhouette will emulate the beginning form which will then follow onto the second outfit in the line-up which is the chrysalis, this outfit symbolises the cocoon which shows the butterfly beginning to emerge. I am excited about this outfit because my garment has a lot of dimension and layers which show the two different elements of cocoon and butterfly. The final outfit is the final emergence of the butterfly in the last step of transformation. This final garment is the largest in my collection and the most colourful and dramatic in order to project the feeling of transforming mutation which is the butterfly. Just like the metamorphic process, I plan to create a short video that will also tell a story of how my different garments develop and transform into each other.
What materials have you used and how did you source them? (300 words)
The materials I have used throughout this collection have been organza and tulle netting mainly, I chose these because I love how they look visually and also they emulate the delicate feel of butterfly wings really well. All of the fabric I have used have been sourced from UK stores online because I was unable to travel elsewhere in Europe to buy from a shop, however, I have been happy with the materials I was able to get online. Minerva Fabrics is where I have mainly been using for my fabrics which have included deadstock fabrics that have been more sustainable. I have also been using the Facebook marketplace and eBay for some of my tulle and organza because I wanted to support small businesses.
Before I was able to return to campus I used my leftover fabric scraps and samples I had collected to create miniature toiles of the garments I had planned to create in order to test how to construct them and also to see whether they work well. I felt like this was important because I didn’t want to waste any of my materials and also it helped me to portray my design ideas better in addition to getting an idea of the scale of fabric I would need for the final toiling and garments. In my collection, I have created garments that represent transformation with the element of delicate fabrics and ethereal iridescent colours. The colours I chose were based on my colour and mood board however when you see the fabrics in real life they are much more exciting as you get to see them transform in different ways which are enchanting and mesmerising. It was difficult to decide what images from my primary research I would use for my final collection colour story, however, I concluded that the use of vibrant greens and blues would complement the gentle pinks well in organza which has a metallic element to give it a mystical feel.
How has it evolved from your initial ideas and what have you learnt along the way?
My project has evolved quite a lot from my original ideas even from the first term to the second. Throughout my design development, I was able to see the many stages of metamorphosis which played a big part in constructing my silhouettes for my line-up. Although I have had the same concept in mind throughout my designs my exploration of different fabric samples has definitely impacted the way I have been working. I adapted my designs to be more structured yet also delicate through the use of organza, over the second term I took my initial designs and made them much looser and less traditional. For example, I originally designed my trousers with the idea of creating them baggier and scrunching them at the bottom to create shape, however, I have now developed the technique of making the pattern extremely long and then gathering the fabric on the inside leg. I love the way it turned out because it really emulates the contours you would see on a caterpillar and the organza creates a lot of volumes.
During this year I have gained so much more experience in garment construction and pattern cutting; I have been challenged in many ways working from home however it gave me the confidence to explore new techniques and trust my own instincts when designing. Although many people may see working individually as a disadvantage, I managed to turn it around and make the most of the opportunity to experiment and explore new ways of creating garments and use techniques I was unfamiliar with. I plan to continue exploring my ideas and keep trying new ways of creating my garments, my favourite element of my garment construction I have been using is definitely gathering because I love the shapes and texture it adds to my garments. Gathering fabric was not something I had explored in the first term however as my development progressed I found that it would be the best technique to make my illustrations come to life with lots of contrasting layers.
What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away? Do explore any topics like diversity, sustainability or politics in your work?
The main message and theme behind my work is transformation, I want people to interpret that in their own way that suits their own situations. I created this collection because I wanted to give hope that you can transform anything into something new and exciting, you just have to go through the different stages first. In many cultures, the butterfly symbolises a new beginning and I think a lot of people can associate with that, I personally can relate because this year I made a few big changes in my life for the better. I think that not only is this concept a personal reflection into our own lives and how we are transforming into something better, but this is our chance to reflect on other issues in the world and how we should be revolutionising them. The main issue I wanted to emphasise is mental health and supporting each other, throughout lockdown many people have been secluded in their own environments I reflected this by creating cocoon-like garments.
Society has become much more separate from each other and we only see what is posted online now rather than what is in real life, I want to use the styling of my photoshoot to demonstrate the collision of forest fairy elements in natural environments and alien-like aesthetics – which we are so used to seeing now with online filters. I think that the importance of combining an outdoor feel to my work is relevant because that was my place of escape from online reality at home throughout lockdown where I would take the chance to walk around and explore nature in my area. Another reason I think photographing my garments outdoors portrays my story further because my outfits are inspired by biophilic design. My Target audience is aimed at individuals who want to express themselves by wearing exciting garments that represent transformation with the element of delicate fabrics and ethereal iridescent colours.
What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?
The main aspect of the fashion industry I want to have a positive impact on is to ensure that I do not contribute to the fast fashion industry. My main goal as a designer is to be as sustainable as possible because I believe that clothing is special and I want to create garments that are made for individuals rather than mass-produced. Although in the past I have bought from big brands I have continued to educate myself about ethical fashion and I have tried to support as much small business as possible and also buy clothing less regularly. Throughout creating this collection I have tried to not waste any fabric in my pattern cutting, the way I have been designing my dress garment, for example, means that I am cutting long rectangles of fabric so there has been no waste.
With my offcuts and samples, I have used them in my sketchbook for my design development and also to make mini toiles of my garments on dolls. A large portion of my fabric was bought second hand from other people online who no longer needed it and I think that buying from other small businesses and designers not only helps them as individuals economically but also prevents materials from going to waste. I am passionate about improving the way fast fashion works so that we buy better quality clothing but less often rather than trying to keep up with online trends that change every week. Although I have taken current trends into consideration I have ensured that my outfits can be worn in layers or as individual garments that can be swapped around with each other. As a designer, I want to benefit the wearer by using high-quality fabrics that will last a long time and be wearable in years to come.
What is your plan once you finish your BA?
After my BA I plan to continue to design but to expand my knowledge further, I have learned from developing my collection to gain more confidence in my technical abilities and be able to experiment and adapt to different boundaries. Although there have been many things that have impacted this year I know that it has made me stronger as a designer and will benefit me in the future. Throughout working on my garment production skills this year, I was inspired to move forwards to apply for an Erasmus 6 month study placement in order to learn more in a new environment. I am still finalising the details but I have secured my first choice at Accademia Della Moda in Napoli where I am excited to gain new experiences and learn more about another culture. I chose Italy in particular because it is well known for producing amazing fashion and there are many high fashion brands from there that I look up to as a designer from an aesthetic point of views such as Valentino and Gucci.
Furthermore, I am eager to travel and experience new cities and visit Art galleries and museums which will inspire my designs for the future and give me a new outlook on life. After I complete my study placement I would like to begin starting my own brand creating custom clothing where I can incorporate my skills as a stylist so that I can pursue creating interesting photoshoots for my portfolio. A photographer I really look up to is Tim walker because I appreciate his ideas and I love the concept of styling photoshoots that look like art you could see in a gallery, this is something I plan to continue to specialise in when showing my work. In the meantime, I am going to continue to perfect my craft and build up my social media platforms so I can keep sharing my work and ideas. I am really excited to complete my final collection and I look forward to sharing my results soon.