Alysha Lily
Meet GFF Talent Alysha Lily, a fashion graduate from Solent University. Alysha’s final collection, The Heir To The Throne from is inspired by London gangs, the TV show Top Boy and artist Herr Nilsson, as well as Tudor England. These juxtaposing styles create a unique collection which radiants strength and power and challenge traditional views of femininity. Read on to learn more about Alysha and her final project.
What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?
I could never pick one thing, Solent has taught me so much and made me grow as a person and a designer. I went to Solent with not much knowledge on pattern cutting or garment construction and 3 years later I'm now completing my collection at home independently the best I can. I never would have thought I'd be able to make garments on my own Solent gave me the knowledge and confidence. I also began to develop my own brand, Dark Heir.
This was the name I created for my digital project in the first year and have stuck with it ever since. At the time all my designs were 90% black or black and white prints (how times have changed) so that explains the 'Dark'. The second part 'Heir' I have always been captivated by royalty and thought the words simply worked well together. University helped me find my design identity.
What was the starting point of inspiration for your final project?
The starting point for my collection was looking into imagery of male gangs in London, analysing their dress code, surroundings and attitude. I was heavily inspired by the series Top Boy and artist Herr Nilsson. I combined this with Tudor portraits of Elizabeth I and Henry VIII, finding a synonymy in their expression of power and status. Through collaging images from both sources, ideas for silhouette, fabrication and detailing emerged.
What form will your final project take?
The collection will consist of 4 outfits from my final line up. I designed a collection of garments that belong to the streetwear family but with a spin. The Heir to the Throne collection has taken your stereotypical tracksuit however create it in a detailed heir print with elasticated faux fur cuffs. This runs through the collection with garments from ponchos to utility jackets to puffa coats in graffiti prints and cotton twills to bring you your new ideal girl gang.
What materials have you used and how did you source them?
In my collection, I used breathable waterproof for the Henry VIII coat and the poncho which I got printed with Contrado. I also used heavy brushed jersey and cotton twill within the collection which I got printed in my graffiti and chain prints in different colourways. I also sourced two cotton twills and faux fur from Minerva. One dark beige and one light beige to balance the print and the faux fur in rose gold for trims. Another trim I sourced is an ivory lace pleated trim from MyFabrics to combine the Tudor feminine part of my concept.
How has it evolved from your initial ideas and what have you learnt along the way?
In the beginning, I only wanted to focus on creating my own confident, ambitious girl gang but my Tudor elements began to come in to communicate that feminine side. I have always been captivated by the Tudor period since a young age and was influenced by it a lot throughout my first year so I loved that I was referring to it for my final collection. This collection has become a merge of all of my 3 years of university accidentally, it communicates all my interests and the things I am passionate about so its very personal to me.
What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away? Do explore any topics like diversity, sustainability or politics in your work?
My starting point for my collection was looking at imagery of male gangs in London so being influenced by Herr Nilsson (an artist that takes Disney princesses and illustrates them on the streets with weapons) I wanted to recreate a girly pink girl gang inspired by those men to make viewers look twice. I wanted to question the idea of traditional femininity.
What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?
I want to have a positive impact on men and women feeling good about themselves when expressing themselves through fashion. I want to create garments for individuals to feel amazing in whether they are size 6 or size 20. I have friends and family that struggle to find clothing they feel good in, so I'd love to be able to have a positive impact on that. I have always expressed myself through fashion and feel best with a great outfit on.
What is your plan once you finish your BA?
When I finish my BA I would love to go into the industry to gain experience working with a brand such a Collusion. I love their technical designs combined with their graphic prints. Alongside this, I would love to continue building my brand Dark Heir as a unisex streetwear/skiwear brand. Seeing people wear my designs in the street or on the slopes would be the best feeling ever.