Meet GFF International Talent, Amineh Ahmad from the College for Creative Studies in Detroit. Amineh’s collection “Arabesque” is a six piece accessories collection inspired by the role Muslim Arab women play within their society. The collection explores the relationship between religion and culture, and how clothing can be used as a tool to control a person’s behaviour and identity. Learn more about Amineh’s work below.
Contact details:
Email: aminehahmad01@gmail.com
Tell us about you, where are you from, what lead you to fashion and choosing that course?
My name is Amineh Ahmad and I’m from Detroit, MI. My parents immigrated to the US from Lebanon during the 80s and I grew up as a first generation Arab-American in the states. I grew up in a traditional household where I tried to balance my culture and religion with the distinctions of a Western society. I was drawn to fashion because of certain requirements to dress modestly in my culture, that influenced my drive for finding individuality through what you wore. The woman’s body was meant to be covered and hidden, but I was interested in exploring what modesty meant to a modern day Arab-American. I chose to study Fashion Accessories Design because I felt that an accessory could be more than just a bag you carry your essentials in, or a shoe you wear to protect your feet. I wanted to explore what an accessory meant in relation to a woman’s body.
Describe the inspiration and concept behind your work. Talk us through your final project and your research process. How did that come about?
Arabesque is a six piece accessories collection inspired by the role Muslim Arab women play within their society. The collection delves deep into the suppressed identity and individuality of Muslim women, making them invisible to society at large. These issues only became more apparent when these women began to speak out. A young Muslim woman is targeted if she goes to school, she is jailed if she drives a car, and if her opinion is voiced, she is assaulted either physically or verbally. All aspects of this woman’s life were predetermined, whether it be the clothes she wore or her future aspirations. Arabesque explores the dichotomy between religion and culture, asking what would happen if women in these societies stood up, stood out, and took back their identities.
Tell us about your design process. How do you work? How do you take your research and develop your own designs?
I’m inspired by the woman’s body and the shapes alluding from it. I think of design as forms and start with the relationship between the body and the accessory. For me, an accessory was never about its functionality, but about how the wearer is able to translate the piece to be a part of their identity. I see the body as an organic architectural form that I design around. I develop my designs by beginning with the body, and questioning how this accessory will interact with the wearer. I question the significance of its functionality, and whether the woman will use this bag to carry her wallet in, or if she’ll wear it to showcase her individuality in society. The most important thing I like to remember while designing is to keep this decision up to the woman in charge.
Tell us about your Collection Development. How do you toile, how do you like to pattern cut, do you like to drape?
Because my collection was based on the relationship between soft curved forms and sharp geometric lines, I developed many of my pieces in Illustrator and used a FlashCut to cut the patterns. I went through a lot of trial and error with this because the proportions of the pieces had to work well on the body, so I did multiple prototypes of each piece. Working in 3D is important for me to understand how the piece is interacting with the body. I will generally start by creating a mockup using canvas or pattern paper to drape over the body, before I work digitally. Once I have approved the proportions, I edit and perfect the piece in illustrator so that it is ready for a final cut.
Talk us through your final collection and each outfit. Why where these the final designs?
My collection, Arabesque, consists of six pieces that explore the religious and cultural identity of Arab women in Western society today. Each piece is focused on the relationship of the accessory to the woman’s body. I designed and made three handbags, two body pieces, and a pair of shoes that all represented a Muslim-Arab woman’s identity within her society. The collection incorporates my modern interpretation of a traditional arabesque pattern to allude to the cultural and religious identities of these women. The handbags incorporate elements of transformation that can be worn on the body as a form of protection. The body pieces allude to the shape of the woman’s body while transforming the idea of modesty today. The footwear I designed for the collection was intended to question its functionality for the wearer. The piece looks like a sculpture that is not intended for wearability, but they still function as wearable shoes. The idea behind the collection was to allow the wearer to decide how to interact with each accessory and how it questions the idea of modesty for women today.
What materials have you used within the collection and how did you source them? Why were this the right material for your collection?
I primarily used leather, both nappa and patent, as the materials for my collection. I also used a sheer netting material to incorporate into some of the details of the pieces. I have always been intrigued by the touch and feel of leather as well as its quality and durability. The patent leather was used to represent the idea of reflection of identity within my collection, and I wanted to offset this reflection aspect by combining it with the matte nappa leather. Most of the pieces in my collection were mainly structural and molded, so using leather was the perfect choice to create the structural element that I needed.
Tell us about your illustration technics. Explain your final line up and what art materials and technics you use to showcase it.
I showcased my final lineup as a digital photograph representing each piece. I feel that nowadays, the idea of an illustration can be anything the designer wants it to be. For me, I have always tried to experiment with illustrating, but I felt that representing this lineup in a digital photograph was representative of this new digital age. Each piece is showcased on the body as the model is interacting with the piece in a different way. I shot the images with my iPhone in a makeshift home studio given the circumstances, but I felt that this lineup was a clear representation of the current times.
What part of your final project have you enjoyed most and why? ie, the research and concept or maybe the manufacturing of the collection.
I have always enjoyed the tangible aspect of making and developing my collections in 3D, but with this collection, I thoroughly enjoyed the research and concept development. For me, diving into a personal aspect of my life was more difficult in the beginning of my time as a student. I felt the need to conform to classic forms of design, and I never let my voice or story show through my work. This collection allowed me to tell my story, the story of a woman trying to find her voice within this society. I felt that I was able to design better knowing this is not only a representation of my voice, but that of so many women around the world. I was designing for these women, to allow them to find their voices and showcase their individuality, so that they know they are powerful and have a purpose within their societies.
What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?
An aspect of the fashion industry that I would like to fix or have a positive impact on is the representation of women in the industry. I strongly believe that women should be given more leadership roles within the industry, especially in regards to roles as Creative Directors. There is a stigma regarding women being in leadership positions and I think it’s time that we are given the same opportunities as others without gender having to play a role in those decisions. I also feel strongly about the lack of different types of women being represented in editorial ads and in runway shows. The industry needs more representation regarding different body types, race and ethnicities to showcase the real beauty in what it means to be different. I think it’s so important for a woman of color or a size 12 model to know that they have a place in this industry, and they too can succeed.
What is your plan once you finish your BA? Where do you wish to be in the future?
I have fortunately secured a footwear design position with Ralph Lauren during my final year as a student. Obviously the future is so uncertain considering the circumstances, but I hope to grow within the company and continue working as a footwear designer in the industry. The company has been supporting those in need during this time, so I am excited to join a team of industry leaders that have been making the health and safety of others their priority.