Meet Flo Stanley, a Contour Fashion graduate from De Montfort University in Leicester. Flo’s final year project is inspired by sustainability, religion, opulence and the feminist movement. “I believe that your work should spread a message no matter how small or big, just a small hidden meaning is always nice to have,” says Flo, who has also explored body positivity through her work. Read on to learn more!
What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?
One of the most valuable things that I have learnt at university is that organisation and time management is the key to success, especially on a creative course. On some academic courses I know of people being able to write their whole assignment the night before. Unfortunately, on a fashion course it would be impossible to make a whole collection the night before your deadline. If you do not manage time well and organise yourself then you will create a whole load of problems for the future of your project. I learnt this as a result of not managing my time well in my second year and I felt the immense pressure of not being able to do everything in the timeframe that I had.
Although this was not a good experience it did prepare me well for my 3rd and final year as I knew I had to manage my work much better. I did manage my time effectively and everything was running like clockwork right up until COVID-19 hit the university. When COVID-19 hit, everything just gradually fell apart – all facilities including the sewing room and library were closed and we were given multiple extensions, so time management was no longer the main concern.
I definitely feel that this skillset comes in very useful with industry as well. When I went on an industry work placement I found there was a lot of focus on the team’s critical paths. This proved to me that it was not just a university skill but also a workplace/ industry skill that was very important, to ensure that everything is on time and running smoothly. The lack of time management I had in the second year really put it into perspective for me as I never want to be in that position again.
Tell us about your current projects and work, what have you been working on?
At the start of the 3rd year (October 2019) I had an ‘External Client’ project for H&M where it was based very heavily around sustainability and the SDG’s (Sustainable Development Goals). There were a lot of ways to approach this such as exploring new sustainable materials, zero waste, repurposing old garments etc. However, I remember looking at bra wires and because a lot of them are coated in plastic this makes them un-recyclable. I started to think about creating a recyclable wire.
3D printing is a relatively new construction method that has been gaining more popularity over the years. There have been a few 3D garments worn at the Met Gala and the Victoria’s Secret fashion show using this technology. So, after a couple weeks of development I decided that 3D printing a bra wire was not enough for a 3rd year project. I decided to push myself and print the whole frontal structure of the bra instead and also designed and produced some 3D printed panels for my briefs. I like the 3D printing process because it is zero waste and recyclable (depending on the material you choose) and this fit the Sustainability brief well. Researching the process and finding suppliers took a lot of time and each bra that was printed took around 40 hours to print. I had to produce multiple prints to ensure the right fit of the garment which was a costly process as well.
Alongside the 3D printed bra I decided to digitally print my own fabric. I used recycled Silk Tencel Satin and printed my own design which was based on the 5th SDG (Gender equality), religion and feminism using The Silk Bureau. For my Final Collection in the 3rd Year (January 2020) I wanted to carry on developing my 3D printed bra concept, improving it’s fit and form. From what I learnt in the 1st term project I felt a lot more knowledgeable about how the whole process worked. This time I had to make 4 outfits, so to create continuity between the outfits I decided to create a 3D printed bra for each. I wanted to get my bras professionally finished and sourced an iridescent paint (which is actually primarily used for cars).
With a theme of Opulence, I wanted to make the most extravagant collection that I possibly could. I took inspiration from the 2019 Met Gala and The Met Museum’s ‘Camp: Notes on Fashion’ exhibition that I went to visit last year in New York. I used a lot of dress net within this collection in order to create the amount of drama and impact that I desired. Luckily dress net is a cheap fabric costing around 50p a metre when bought in bulk, in comparison to the Silk Tencel Satin that I used for the previous project which was 20x the price. I also made the decision to have each outfit a different shade of pink instead of using the same colour throughout the collection. I wanted my collection to graduate in colour but I used all the same fabrics and style to maintain the collection’s identity.
I was very fortunate to be able to finish my whole collection even though all of the university facilities were closed mid-way through the term. I had already printed and painted all my bras, bought all my fabrics and dyed all of the elastics that I needed before the university closed. The rest of the garments I could make at home as they were all manageable for a domestic sewing machine and overlocker. If I had not printed the bras in time and dyed all of my elastics at the beginning of the project I would not have had the collection that I have today.
What form does your final year project take?
The final collection takes the form of 4 separate outfits made up from multiple garments however there has been a lot of other forms that it has taken behind the scenes. My sketchbook was the rawest form of my work with initial ideas, sketches and imagery that has been collected along the way to achieve the final outcome. A sketchbook shows the very start of my ideas right up to my final outcomes and decisions, which is very important as you can see how your ideas develop and progress throughout the length of the project. It helps to show you how you think and develop as a creative individual. You can refer back to it and see how you overcame certain obstacles or what you were thinking at one point in time. Another form that this collection has taken is within the technical and development files that are produced alongside the final collection.
These are the more formal documents that support your final collection, as if it was to be put into production, incorporating technical flat CADs, measurement charts, method of manufacture and so on. The design development file is a step by step guide of how you came to your final outcome of your most challenging piece. This is important as if you want to recreate another similar item you can use it as a working document adding and altering as you develop your product until you are satisfied with the final outcome. Mood boards have always been one of the most important forms of conveying your message as a creative. This can be displayed through text, imagery, fabrics, drawings etc... These are the starting points of a collection with your initial thoughts and feelings which will obviously develop along the way. It is always good to have a strong visual to start. My mood boards that sit alongside my final outfits embody my theme, message and collection.
How have you evolved as a young creative while studying / working?
I have evolved tremendously as a creative throughout my 3 year Contour Fashion degree. I came to University from College where I studied Art & Design so only really had a background in fine art and no experience with making/ designing underwear. The first year was a more informative year as opposed to creative, this was to try and help everybody become familiar with all of the basics. For example; the different sewing machines, computer programmes (such as Photoshop and Illustrator) and just to become more familiar with the different types of underwear construction. The second year is when I started to evolve and discover myself as a designer. We had a slightly freer rein with the briefs that we were given. I made my first full outfit from start to finish in the second year which helped me tremendously, as it showed me how tough it is to take an initial concept and follow it through right until the end, when it is going down the catwalk. I definitely struggled but I learnt so much from it (time management, organisation and sourcing materials) which I carried into my 3rd year.
The 3rd year is where my style started to form. I had used all of my past experiences to help me develop my own creative identity. There is a common theme running through all of my work. Bold colours, personal messages and over exaggerated features (sleeves, textures or colour). I like to represent my personality through prints, textures. and form. I also like there to be a meaning behind my work such as my ‘External Client’ project being based on sustainability and women’s rights. My final collection was based on over exaggeration and acceptance of being who you are. I have always tried to reflect myself through art, design and other forms of creative outlets, not just fashion. However, doing this degree has helped me evolve and focus on a more specific area but still portraying myself through all of the work that I do and create.
What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away? Do explore any topics like diversity, sustainability or politics in your work?
I love to have meanings and messages behind my work. I believe that your work should spread a message no matter how small or big, just a small hidden meaning is always nice to have. The print that I created for my 3rd year first term project had a lot of meanings behind it. It was inspired by sustainability, religion and the feminist movement. I chose the 5th SDG which is ‘Gender Equality’ (to empower all girls and women). Sustainability is another big part to this project and rightly so. With global warming increasing, sea levels rising, more plastic in the world than ever before it is an issue the world needs to acknowledge and address very quickly.
The ignorant attitude toward the environment is decreasing the chances of fixing the problem. The bra that I created for this project had a quote printed into the cups The quote was ‘There is no Planet B’. I hoped that this message being featured at the front would help raise awareness of the severity of the situation that we are all in. This quote was also incorporated into the design printed on the fabric. The main part of my theme was the 3rd wave of feminism, after discovering that there are laws being put into place that restrict what women can and cannot do with their bodies.
I believe it is a modern-day way to oppress women, and I wanted to raise awareness of this particular issue. I was also researching into different brands that help and support women which I found a lot do, through various charities. As an ethnic minority female myself, it feels like you can be outnumbered and under-represented in society. This is why I chose the 5th SDG because it was something that I could relate to on a personal level and I wanted to bring awareness of this issue through my outfit.
What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?
For my final extended essay, I wrote about how the fashion industry is responding to the body positivity movement. I learnt a lot about the industry when researching the subject and actually changed my view on the ‘body positivity movement’, which is currently being spread across a multitude of platforms such as social media, advertisement and branding. Although I am grateful to where it had got us to today, it’s time for a change in direction to adapt to today’s evolving society. After extensive research for this essay, I believe that I have learnt that the industry is moving in the wrong direction when it comes to the whole ‘body positivity movement’. Women come in all shapes and sizes which is beautiful.
However, I think that there is far too much emphasis on ‘big and small’ or ‘plus sized and skinny’. I believe the way to move forward is towards body neutrality. This is just pure acceptance of our own bodies whilst also being aware of health side effects of being ‘too skinny’ or ‘too large’. The focus of ‘big and small’ needs to come to an end. An extreme of anything is never good. Another phase to move forward on is it to embrace what society would deem as a ‘flaw’. This can be in forms such as stretch marks, birthmarks, skin conditions or disabilities- the list goes on. We can see evidence of this beginning to appear in advertising and social media at the moment. The reluctant acceptance of women having different bodies is tiring and also extremely outdated. Women need to feel empowered and feel like they have more to contribute to society than just their bodies. This is the area that I would like to make my positive impact on in the industry, because I believe that it is time to move forward to help create a better, happier, more accepting society for women.
What is your plan for the future?
In the immediate future, I am awaiting my degree results. I hope to achieve the best that I possibly can, taking into consideration these unprecedented circumstances. With any luck all of my hard work will pay off and I can leave university feeling good about my results even though the end was cut short, leaving a bitter taste in everyone’s mouth. I am waiting to hear from the university about the rescheduling of our cancelled graduation ceremony. I hope that they can also reinstate our cancelled catwalk show, which means so much to the students on our course.
Not just so we can display our collections, but also because it is a showcase of our work to industry and other forms of media that report on the event, giving us some much needed exposure. I am hopeful that the end of year course brochure that was also cancelled will be revived and resume when life starts to go back to normality. In general, I hope that we get all of the recognition that we deserve, both as a year group and as individual designers, just like all of the year groups before us have received.
I would like to utilise my degree and get a job in the fashion industry. I know jobs may be scarce at the moment, but things will start to pick up again. In the meantime, I will have to start a part time job up to fill in my time whilst I’m on the lookout for greater opportunities. I’d also like to keep sewing and designing as much as possible, so I don’t lose any of the skills that I have gained. I would like to try and start selling garments to friends and family. COVID-19 has shaken everyone and the future looks uncertain, I hope that this is only a short-term setback to the class of 2020.