Firstly, a huge congratulations on winning at Graduate Fashion Week 2019! What award did you win?
I was the winner of the George Catwalk to Store Award 2019 and runner up of the Christopher Bailey Collection of the Yeat Award.
How did it feel when your name was read out during the show?
I felt hugely overwhelmed and thankful! The talent across GFW19 was so high that it was a really unexpected and exciting surprise. It was such an honour to be recognised for the wearability, functionality and high level of finish within my collection- all elements that I value so highly in my design process!
Which university did you attend and what course did you study?
I attended Edinburgh College of Art, they prepared us by pushing us to create the best portfolio of work possible, as well as encouraging us to think optimistically and realistically about our futures within the fashion industry.
….What is the most valuable thing that you learnt there?
To always design with purpose and direction, and the importance of your peers in motivating and inspiring your designs to reach their full potential.
Tell us about your story. What lead you to fashion and choosing that course?
I have always loved the process of styling, customising and making clothing in order to feel more confident and expressive within myself. When the time came to make a decision about my future career I knew that Fashion was something I was truly passionate about and despite the industry being a difficult one to crack- I knew it was the place that I wanted to make my mark.
What themes do you explore with your designs? And what do they mean to you?
I explore the heritage and tradition of clothing- in broad terms the practical and cultural relevance of garments. I aim to clash this with modern culture to discover where fashion is progressing towards whilst keeping it rooted in purpose and continuing a story- the history of a garment.
Talk us through your graduate collection presented at GFW. How did that come about?
I believe the root of overconsumption comes from the lack of value in design and the clothes we wear from both consumer and designer. Is it possible to design value? To design emotional connection?
Sustainability and social awareness are at the core of my design process. I have adopted a two-pronged approach to this- through seeking to use locally produced, sustainable materials and collaborating with local artisans; and through designing garments for longevity, with strong emotional durability, with the aim of reducing waste. I believe that in order to encourage true sustainability it is important to address the issue of over-consumption, and not just rely on processes that tackle waste after it has been generated by the fashion industry.
Analysing my own love of clothes and consumption habits, I have realised how important it is to have a story. The garments that I love and treasure the most are those which have come into my life at special times or bought from specific places. Garments that have fun references to things that I am interested in and have carefully considered details that prove the designer cared about the clothes that I am now wearing.
My design aims to encourage longevity by creating a vessel that evokes a nostalgic or passionate response. The key areas that I am tapping into are patriotism (in particular Scottish patriotism) and reference to film and music (cultural art that often evokes group nostalgia). The collection clashes traditional Scottish dress with the tacky side of the Scottish tourist industry- referencing many Scottish stereotypes in a lighthearted, tongue-in-cheek way. My hope is that people will invest in key pieces that they will treasure for a long time, thus reducing consumption and combating the idea of clothes being disposable.
My aim is to produce pieces that have a life of their own and give back to the wearer- useful pockets and inspiring details. Encouraging people to create an emotional connection with their clothing on a level that they value it beyond its physical existence.
What sort of materials did you use and how did you source them?
I aim to work with sustainability and social awareness at the core of my design process. I have been using locally produced and sustainable materials, and designing garments for longevity to reduce waste. We must address the issue of overconsumption, and not just rely on processes that tackle waste after it has been generated by the fashion industry.
Of course the textiles used across the fashion industry have an environmental impact, which should be addressed. This is however, a complex area with conflicting opinions- for example there is the unsustainable impact of many natural fibres such as cotton and wool (pesticides, water use, labour issues) and the recycled synthetic alternatives (still produce micro-plastics, won’t biodegrade).
The textiles I have used have been sourced as locally and sustainably as possible, by means of recycling and using offcuts and end of roll fabrics from Scottish mills. However that is not the principle focus of the collection- instead I have aimed to create garments that engage people on a deeper level, creating an emotional attachment.
I have also been collaborating with local artisans as I am passionate about promoting local skills. I believe that the process of meeting, and visiting the studios of other creatives initiates invaluable and positive relationships between designer and manufacturer- that will ultimately encourage traceability within my practice and a more ethical production line.
Describe the inspiration and concept behind your work.
My research on Scottish culture has a core value of longevity. Kilts were traditionally made to be long lasting and durable- with wools and tweeds being hard wearing, practical, with the ability to disguise stains! A more modern example is the film Trainspotting. Originally made in 1996, it explores drug addiction and urban poverty in Edinburgh at the time. It was hugely successful and has withstood the test of time- remaining a brutal but relevant depiction of Scotland and retaining a ‘cool’ association with a contemporary soundtrack. Scottish tradition and modern culture both have a durability that I wanted to reference across this collection.
Being a fashion designer in Scotland offers a unique positioning, allowing the space and time to think and develop an individual aesthetic, without the limitations or expectation of a preexisting style. I want to explore where Scotland sits on the fashion map. Where there is ‘Parisienne chic’ and ‘London cool’ what energy does/could Scottish fashion bring?
Do you explore any political, social or historical notions through your work? If so, what messages do you hope to convey?
I aim to touch on many relivant political, social and historical notions. My garments act as vessles that can inspire people to question their own opinions and curate their stance on many of these issues.
Many say that the industry is undergoing a huge change, with sustainability, diversity, and responsibility becoming huge themes. Do you have any opinions on these movements?
Globalization in modern society has made way for the fast fashion industry to boom. This has allowed people of all economic backgrounds the ability to access and harness fashion as their own, however, it has had (and is having) a devastating effect on our planet. I believe sustainability is the fashion industry’s most relevant issue as there has to be a major change in the immediate future.
Overconsumption is a huge issue within the fashion industry. The root of the environmental crisis is the ‘throw-away’ culture that we live in- from single-use plastics to poor quality clothing, it is accepted as normal to discard objects that still have life in them, in favour for new ‘box fresh’ products that will be discarded in the same way, creating a continual cycle of wasted resources that end up in landfill.
Emotional durability looks beyond the symptom-focused approach of simply tackling the problem of waste (through recycling, biodegradability and disassembly) it seeks to addresses the actual causes that underpin the environmental crisis we face. Ultimately consumers replace objects because the items lack meaning- designing for emotional durability encourages designers to create items that are more meaningful, therefore extending their lifecycle.
Mobile App Plans
How would you describe your personal style? What influences you the most?
I am inspired by a huge variety of avenues for my personal style. I mostly shop vintage or second hand so am inspired by the garments that I come across and that evoke a response within me. I am also often inspired by the research that I am doing within my design practice- the more I learn about the history of garments makes me aware of the cultural significance of many pieces and gives me a deep respect for the clothing that I wear.
How are you hoping your designs will evolve in the future?
I hope that my designs continue to stay relevant- being a snapshot of culture at a particular time. I hope that my designs continue to balance deep historical research with modern culture- and continue to connect with people on that level.
Graduate Fashion Week provides a platform for emerging fashion graduates to showcase their work regardless of the specific discipline. Which area of the industry are you hoping to pursue, and what informed this choice?
I hope to work in the design side of the fashion industry- I love the process of creating wearable clothing that connects with customers.
Where do you hope to be in five year’s time?
I would love to be working as part of a strong team within an innovative fashion house.
Winning his award at GFW 19
What one thing would you recommend our visitors do whilst at GFW?
Look at graduate’s portfolios! There is such a variety of talent and the stories behind every collection are so interesting.
If you could give one piece of advice to yourself in the first year at university, what would it be?
Experiment! -and bring your external interests into the design process as much as possible.
What top five tips would you give to final year students?
1 -Do as much research as possible in places you personally find inspiring!
2- Stay true to yourself- if something doesn’t sit right with you at any stage then change it
3- Keep pushing for your designs to be better- its worth it in the end
4 - Try and understand your own design process as much as possible and don’t compare it to others- your own strengths are what will make you stand out!
5- Work hard but get enough sleep! Jobs are done ten times faster when you’re on the ball
Work portfolio by Ciara Neale