Katarina Chovancova from Northumbria University has received the GFW24 Inclusive Fashion Award, supported by Snag. This accolade highlights her commitment to promoting diversity and accessibility within the fashion industry, reflecting a growing awareness of the importance of inclusivity in design.
What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?
One of the most valuable lessons I’ve learnt is the power of hard work and the importance of a supportive network. The support and mentorship from my lecturers and technicians were invaluable. Their guidance went beyond academic instruction; they provided inspiration and encouragement, nurturing my creativity and pushing me to strive for excellence. Through one-on-one discussions, detailed feedback, or simply believing in my potential, their influence played an important role in my growth and success.
Graduating from Northumbria University with a degree in Fashion Design and Marketing has been an extraordinary journey, one that has tested my limits and expanded my horizons. The path to this point has been anything but easy. Countless 18+ hour days and working seven days a week with two jobs on the side became the norm, but each moment of exhaustion was met with an equally powerful sense of accomplishment.
My academic journey was further complicated by personal struggles with mental health, depression, ADHD, and ASD. Battling clinical depression often made it difficult to find motivation for even the simplest tasks, while ADHD sometimes made focussing on assignments and coursework a monumental effort. Autism added another layer of complexity, affecting my social interactions and making the university environment occasionally overwhelming. Despite these obstacles, I persevered, learning to manage my conditions while continuing to pursue my passion.
Throughout this period, I learnt the importance of resilience, adaptability, and hard work. The challenges I faced only made the experience more rewarding, shaping me into a resilient, dedicated individual who understands the value of perseverance.
What was the starting point of inspiration for your final project?
Every step of my life has been fuelled by inspiration from my own stories and battles, my surroundings, and the remarkable individuals who have crossed my path. From these experiences, a vision emerged that reflects both my career aspirations and the market demand for sensory-friendly fashion brands. This project holds immense personal significance for me, and with NEW ESCAPE, I’m not just building a brand; I’m crafting a movement—one that celebrates diversity, empowers individuals, and reshapes the current fashion industry.
Diagnosed with depression at 16, I have struggled with mental health issues, eating disorders, and anxiety for as long as I can remember. As I got older, I sought to understand what was wrong with me, spending years questioning my identity and my whole life. Eventually, I discovered that I have ADHD, autism (ASD), and later, hyperhidrosis, heat intolerance, and other musculoskeletal issues. I never received special treatment and avoided discussing any of my conditions. In my country, support for mental health and conditions such as ADHD and ASD is still very limited to children, leaving adults often overlooked and their conditions untreated or misdiagnosed.
A survey, backed by the National Autism Society (NAS), reveals that 72% of people who identify as having a disability say they have not encountered fashion brands that actively embrace neurodiversity. This study also showed that fashion brands are not actively taking into consideration their neurodivergent consumers. There is a lack of awareness and understanding of the impact clothing can have on neurodiverse individuals. Sensory-friendly clothing can play a significant role in preventing and managing sensory issues and overload for neurodivergent people.
Embracing the neurodivergent mind one stitch at a time, NEW ESCAPE aims to create a safe space through innovative and unique designs while taking into consideration their specific needs, sensory issues, and clothing preferences.
What form did your project take?
I designed a six-look collection and physically made two of those looks: a weighed sensory hoodie, dress, and sweatpants. For my promotion, I did a photoshoot, a promotional video, a sensory lookbook, editorial images, an extensive marketing plan, and more!
What materials have you used, and how did you source them?
For individuals with ADHD and autism, fabric texture can significantly impact their sensory experience and daily life. Rough or scratchy textures may cause discomfort and distraction, intensifying sensory sensitivities commonly associated with these conditions. For individuals with ADHD, textures that are too stimulating or uncomfortable can be highly distracting, making it difficult for them to focus on tasks or activities. Smooth, soft, and breathable fabrics can offer a calming effect and increase focus and comfort. Selecting the right fabric is crucial in providing a supportive environment that minimises sensory overload and promotes well-being for individuals with ADHD and autism. Fabric choice can contribute to creating a more inclusive and accommodating environment, allowing individuals to manage their sensory needs better and thrive in their day-to-day lives.
To ensure the highest quality, I sourced materials from fabric manufacturers and conducted extensive testing with individuals on the neurodivergent spectrum like ADHD or autism. By evaluating their sensory responses to different textures, I was able to select fabrics that are soft to the touch, breathable, moisture-wicking, and overall as comfortable as a cloud.
How has it evolved from your initial ideas, and what have you learnt along the way?
My vision for creating designs that positively impact the fashion industry has evolved significantly over time. From a young age, I was passionate about helping the world, but it wasn’t until last year that I truly understood how I wanted to achieve that dream. Each year at Northumbria University, I focused on different under-represented groups or current world issues for my projects.
This continual exploration and learning process allowed me to refine my focus and understand the specific needs of various communities. Each project provided valuable insights into the specific needs and challenges faced by multiple communities and helped me identify the gaps within the fashion industry.
The journey has taught me that making a meaningful impact involves more than just a vision; it requires understanding, empathy, and a commitment to addressing real-world challenges. My initial ideas have evolved into a focused mission to create fashion that is not only inclusive and innovative but also sustainable and transformative. I am dedicated to developing designs that support and empower individuals, making a tangible difference in their lives while reshaping the fashion industry.
What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away?
The messages and themes behind my project centre on inclusivity, diversity, sensory sensitivity, and digital innovation.
Inclusivity and Diversity: My project highlights the importance of creating fashion that accommodates and celebrates all individuals regardless of their age, gender, and conditions. The goal is to challenge conventional fashion industry standards and make fashion more inclusive for people with different needs. By designing clothing that addresses these unique needs, I aim to foster a more accepting and diverse environment where everyone can feel comfortable and represented.
At New Escape, we take pride in including individuals of all genders and sizes. Whether you identify as male, female, non-binary, or anywhere along the gender spectrum, our clothing is crafted to fit and flatter a variety of body types and preferences. We’re committed to providing clothing that empowers everyone to express themselves authentically and comfortably, regardless of gender. Whether you’re petite, plus-size, or somewhere in between, we believe that everyone deserves to feel comfortable and confident in their clothing. With our diverse range of sizes, you can shop with peace of mind, knowing that you’ll find the perfect. Our garments are made to be oversized and loose-fitting, allowing for free body movement.
Sensory Sensitivity: A core theme of my project is the impact of fabric texture on sensory experiences. I want to highlight how certain textures can alleviate or exacerbate sensory overload for individuals with neurodiverse conditions. This focus on sensory-friendly design not only addresses a significant need but also raises awareness about the everyday challenges faced by those with sensory sensitivity.
Empowerment and Well-Being: My project seeks to empower individuals by providing clothing that enhances their comfort and confidence. I want to promote well-being through fashion, supporting mental health and sensory needs, and proving that clothing can be stylish and functional.
Digital Innovation: Integrating digital innovation is a key element of my project. I aim to leverage technology to enhance the design process and consumer experience. This includes using digital tools for virtual fitting, incorporating smart textiles that adapt to sensory needs, and employing data-driven approaches to better understand and meet customer preferences. By embracing digital advancements, my project seeks to stay at the forefront of fashion innovation and improve the accessibility and functionality of sensory-friendly clothing.
Social Impact: Beyond fashion, my project explores the broader social impact of inclusive design. By addressing the needs of under-represented groups and advocating for change within the fashion industry, I hope to inspire others to think critically about how their work can contribute to a more equitable and supportive society.
The launch collection ‘’Unmasked’’, in collaboration with The National Autism Society, would use 5% of its profits for further research and establishing a charity for neurodivergent individuals in Eastern Europe, starting with Slovakia (the CEO’s home country). Autism and ADHD remain very unrepresented and untreated in Eastern Europe, with significant gaps in awareness and access to necessary support and resources.
About the logo: Many brands and businesses use the puzzle piece in their marketing campaigns, logos, or prints. There are a large number of autism organisations that have trademarked the puzzle piece and used it in their logos or campaigns. The result of the study highlights the use of the puzzle piece imagery and the negative responses from autistic people. Being referred to as ‘’the missing piece'','solving the autism puzzle’’ has sparked many negative discussions among autistic people. In the College English journal, Yergeau says, "'‘’Puzzle pieces symbolise so much of what is wrong with popular autism discourse—representing autistic people as puzzling, mysterious, less than human entities who are'short a few cognitive pieces’’, who are disconnected and need to ‘’fit in.'' (Heilker and Yergeau, 2011: 494)
The knowledge of this is important for NEW ESCAPE while choosing the logo and future marketing campaigns or social media posts. Building trust and a strong relationship with the customer is one of the fundamental objectives of the brand. It's essential to recognise the significance of various symbols for different groups and how they might be perceived. Many symbols hold a deeper meaning beyond their mere representation; they hold power, they reflect how individuals view themselves, how they perceive others, how others perceive them, and how they develop trust in the world around them.
What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?
I’m passionate about addressing the lack of inclusivity and sensory accommodation within the fashion industry. Traditional fashion often overlooks the needs of individuals with neurodiverse conditions, such as ADHD and autism, who can be significantly impacted by fabric textures and other design features.
My goal is to create a more inclusive fashion environment by designing clothing and other products that cater to sensory sensitivities, ensuring that people with these conditions can find beautiful, comfortable, and functional garments. This involves not only using fabrics that minimise discomfort but also incorporating other features that support sensory needs.
I am committed to integrating digital innovation to improve both the design process and customer experience. This includes using digital tools for virtual fitting and incorporating smart textiles that adapt to sensory needs. Embracing technology enables New Escape to offer personalised solutions and stay at the forefront of fashion innovation.
Masking, or what’s often called ''camouflaging,’’ is one of many characteristics of people with autism spectrum disorder (ASD). This includes the individual ‘’hiding’ their true personality to seem ‘’normal’’ and to fit in or finding ways to seem socially competent to hide their difficulties from the outside world. Not only does it affect the quality of the person’s life, their well-being, long-term outcomes, or social relationships. This study examined the masking experiences of 92 adults (of which 55% were British) with ASD and then analysed the key elements such as motivations, fitting in, and connections with others.
Masking: ‘’I’m hiding behind what I want people to see.’’
‘’I camouflage by putting on a character. I treat my clothes rather like costumes, and certain items of clothing help me uphold certain personality characteristics of which character I am on that occasion.’’
''Putting on a piece of clothing from New Escape is like taking your mask off.''
What are you planning to do following your BA?
Throughout my journey pursuing a bachelor’s degree in Fashion Design & Marketing at Northumbria University, I recognised the potential of integrating technology into the fashion industry, particularly to create solutions that cater to the needs of under-represented communities. This realisation inspired me to continue my education further with a Master’s in Computer Science with a focus on Artificial Intelligence (AI), with the aim of using AI to revolutionise the fashion industry and create innovative solutions for people on the neurodivergent spectrum. From a young age, I knew I wanted to pursue a career in fashion, and I always wanted to create products that make a positive impact on people’s lives.
With a Master’s in Computer Science with a focus on AI and a background in fashion design and marketing, I aim to bring innovative solutions to the fashion industry. By integrating AI, we can create more inclusive, sustainable solutions for an under-represented group.
My goal is to establish New Escape as a leader in the sensory-friendly fashion industry, demonstrating how technology can empower individuals, transform different sectors, and make a positive impact on people’s lives and the world.
After my master's, I plan to pursue a PhD to explore AI's potential in revolutionising fashion and inclusivity further. Through this journey and the power of AI, I aspire to create a world where fashion is truly for everyone and inclusivity is a right, not a privilege.
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