Congratulations, Nicole Singleton! Your outstanding achievement in winning the GFW24 Next Trend Forecasting Award is a testament to your hard work and creativity at Arts University Bournemouth. Keep inspiring others with your innovative vision!
What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?
Something I am extremely grateful for at AUB is that they teach you the basics of every area and allow you to experiment and learn so many different skills in order to find your strengths. From digital fashion technology to traditional textiles, to creative pattern cutting, and to knitwear—you get a taste of all of it. All these opportunities meant that going into my final major project in my third year, I was confident in the skills I have developed and had a clear vision of what I wanted to accomplish. One of the most important skills I learnt was how to analyse trends and carry out in-depth market research. This was something I developed during a group live brief unit where we collaborated with streetwear brand ‘Home Grown’. Learning how to successfully research a fashion brand and understand its target consumer was really important when I started developing my own design philosophy and personal brand identity. It also helped me with understanding trend analysis, subsequently leading me to the GFW24 Trend Forecasting Award.
What was the starting point of inspiration for your final project?
My initial inspiration for my final major project came from my grandparents’ uniquely contrasting pastimes: my grandfather’s passion for husky racing and my grandmother’s dedication to patchwork quilting. The collection draws garment and hardware inspiration from the durable, protective outerwear worn by my grandfather and traditional husky racers. I also looked into the evolution of expedition wear from the early 1900's—looking at explorers like Robert F. Scott and Roald Amundsen—to modern-day extreme sportswear brands like Moncler and The North Face.
The print and textile story of my collection was drawn from traditional quilting techniques inspired by my grandmother, aiming to evoke a sense of home comfort and warmth, reminiscent of returning from a harsh, mountainous terrain, blending functionality with a personal narrative.
What form did your project take?
My project is a 5-look menswear collection marketed for A/W25. The looks consist of articulated trouser legs and uniquely shaped knee pads—a nod to the practical expedition wear and husky racing garments that I initially researched. Also huge puffer sleeves, which run constantly throughout the collection on shirts and coats. I incorporated knitwear in the form of an oversized patchwork jumper and chunky leg warmers. My quilt print is also a consistent feature throughout the collection, displayed on digitally printed water-resistant fabric and then stitched into with a flatbed sewing machine to create a unique texture that appears on multiple garments. Finally, my styling pieces were oversized bomber hats with faux fur trims, another reference to my initial research, summarising my concept exploring comfort and practicality.
What materials have you used, and how did you source them?
As my concept explores the juxtaposition of protective outerwear and extreme winter sportswear with warm, cosy quilts and knitted jumpers, I wanted my fabric selection to reflect that. My plain fabrics were sourced from Paris and London, whereas my digitally printed fabrics were printed at my university using sublimation techniques. I contrasted water repellent fabrics such as nylon and gabardine with soft fleecing and alpaca wool, along with faux fur trimmings. The hardware details on my garments were very important to me. I used silver metal snap hooks for my fastenings, which were inspired by dog sled racing equipment. I also used chunky metal YKK zips for all the pockets on my trousers and jackets.
How has it evolved from your initial ideas, and what have you learnt along the way?
My graduate collection was constantly evolving throughout my final year—in particular, my colour scheme went through multiple transformations before I finally decided on what colours I wanted to use. Colour matching all my sourced fabrics with the patchwork quilt print and all the yarns for my patchwork jumper was one of the most challenging parts of building my collection. However, it was probably the most important skill, as it taught me how to make my collection as cohesive as possible. The silhouette of my collection also evolved a lot through draping with sleeping bags, outerwear garments, and husky racing equipment. I created my designs by sketching and collaging these drapes together. These designs started to evolve in the toiling stage, as I began to use the silhouette inspiration to create practical garments that appeal to my target consumer.
What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away?
I wanted my project to reflect the importance of ‘home comfort’ and the warmth of being around the people you love. My collection is called ‘Home Route’ as it tracks my grandads journey home after sled racing in the mountains. The collection is a love letter to my childhood spent with my grandparents and their unique yet wonderful passions. I want people to feel nostalgic when they see my collection and maybe remind them of their own childhood memories.
What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?
I think sustainability is something that all future designers should be taking into consideration. During my final project, I tried to be as sustainable as possible by using dead stock fabrics and scraps for my patchwork shirt. I also used my scrap yarns to create my leg warmers and leftover fabrics to make my styling pieces with. I think the incorporation of digital technology will have a massive impact on how brands handle sustainability; for example, the use of Clo 3D means brands will be able to create digital prototypes of garments without wasting fabric. During my time at university, I learnt how to make digital layouts on Lectra, which were more space-efficient than physical layouts, meaning less fabric waste. These little steps may seem small, but I believe they can have a huge impact, and it is up to our generation of designers to ensure we do everything we can to make the fashion industry more sustainable.
What are you planning to do following your BA?
Following my award at GFW, I was invited to have an interview with Next for their trainee design program, and, after completing a project for them, I was offered a 12-month contract. So, as of October 2024, I will be starting my position at Next in the menswear design department, which I am really excited about. My dream role in the future would be a head designer for a menswear fashion brand.
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